From Ithaka to Ithaca

Tonight is our last night away from home...we've spent a few days exploring the New York Finger Lakes region...From the MacKenzie-Child's Studio in Aurora, home also to Wells College, to the sweet little village of Skaneateles (pronounced "skinny atlas")...the Cayuga Wine Trail where we visited wineries including the oldest winery in the area, Lucas Vineyards...We drove through the beautiful campuses of Cornell University and Ithaca College overlooking the city of Ithaca. We were surprised to learn that Ithaca is home to over 100 waterfalls and we set out to find a few of them. The city's slogan is "Ithaca is Gorges" and our view from Cornell down through the gorge to the lake in the distance was spectacular! We walked across the gorge on a pedestrian suspension bridge. It was breathtaking...

Our stay was highlighted by the wonderful bed and breakfast that we serendipitously found on "Google". Situated on Country Road 34 on the east side of the lake, there is an 80 year old apple orchard and picture perfect English gardens...Recently refurbished and opened by a lovely young couple, The John Joseph Inn and Elizabeth Restaurant was such a rare treat. The host and hostess, their two beautiful sons and their pot belly pig named Prep made us feel so at home...John is a phenomenal chef...dinners were heavenly, but my favorite meal was his unique rendition of French toast. It is worth the trip to Ithaca just to stay at their inn.

...more to come once we get home and settled back to our wonderful life in Naples.

Chip Pix

Too many photos to just pick 3!

These are a few of my favorite pix of Chip! In the one where he is on the bike we were going to the P.O. to mail a package and he was on a business call.

We had a lot of quiet time along the way to read and I really like this photo of him...The t-shirt picture, well, I just couldn't resist adding it!

Last Stop...Winter Harbor

We made our way across Lake Oneida on water as smooth as glass...the last voyage for Ithaka in 2007...a much nicer ride than the day we left Naples 12 1/2 weeks ago where we had waves washing up over her bow. We were up before the sun and watched a glorious sunrise as the morning mist gave the horizon a muted tone...no hard edges today. Everything was silky.

The folks here at Winter Harbor in Brewerton New York are wonderful...we've spent the day completing the tasks necessary to get Ithaka ready for her Winter storage...The Summer went by quickly; I can hardly believe we are heading home in just a few days...too many memories to think about at once. When I look through all the photos I feel the need to pinch myself, "did I really do all that, see all those places, meet all those people ?" Once I get sometime to sort through all my emotions I know I will add a few more posts...a few more photos...

We rented a car and once she's out of the water, possibly as early as tomorrow morning, we are heading to Ithaca New York. We couldn't think of a better way to end our adventure but to spend it in another Ithaca...where else would we have gone? ..and so, Ithaka stops here in Winter Harbor, but our journey of "discovering Ithaka" goes on and on...

"Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened." ~Dr. Seuss

I'll be brief...

We are laying low in Sylvan Beach New York...counting the days till we go home...Our internet connection is poor, so I may have to wait until we get to Brewerton, our last stop of the Summer, before adding additonal posts and pix.

We are cleaning the boat-stem to stern, shipping stuff home (we bought coffee table books at each beautiful spot we stopped) and trying to eat all the food in the 'fridge! (I'll diet next week).

Thank you to all who travelled along with us by reading our blog all Summer...we love and miss you all...your emails really helped keep us going.

Past times and Pastime

We kept very busy here in the Little Falls area. First on our list of must see places was The National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum. We rented a car and took a very scenic drive through the lovely farmlands which are cradled in the rolling foothills of the surrounding mountains...to the lovely little village of Cooperstown. It was induction weekend, so the whole town was buzzing...kids of all ages, wearing t-shirts of every major league team, crowded the streets of the charming main street-This was a dream come true for me...seeing the shrine to this sport's greatest players...many of whom I grew up worshipping because of the love of the game instilled in me by my father. "My" Yankees dominated the the tributes and their fans outnumbered the rest...We got to see Yogi Berra who was in town for the celebration, signing autographs...I was a kid again and it was great! On our way back to Ithaka we took a "deek" and found Hyde Hall...If you're interested more about this place can be found online at: http://www.hydehall.org/ The towns in this area are quaint and the lake is pristine.

On Friday and Saturday we visited some of the legendary places where great events and quiet heroes shaped the course of American History. Nearly 300 battles were fought during the Revolution to secure America's independence...almost 100 of them on New York soil. We went to Fort Stanwix, the site of the Battle of Oriskany, The Herkimer Home and the Erie Canal Village.

It was England's mission to separate New England from the southern colonies by capturing the strategic Mohawk and Hudson waterways...The siege at Fort Stanwix and the battle of Oriskany directly contributed to the great victory at Saratoga...and now we can say that we were here.

Visiting these places...actually seeing where these events took place...seeing where the Oneida Carrying Place was before the Erie canal connected the Mohawk River and Lake Oneida...understanding that this was the frontier at one time...the bravery of the Patriots and their families...many were German and Dutch immigrants...becoming more aware of the important role the Indians played in winning these decisive battles...re-learning the place in history filled by the French...the Loyalists...getting that feeling under your skin of what it must have been like to fight for what they believed in...This area is a rich cup running over with history...a valley of hallowed places...from Gehrig to Herkimer...great men are revered here and we are blessed to learn of their lives.

Lock E-17

Lock 17 requires westbound vessels to tie up on the south wall. This is the largest single step in the Erie Canal, over 40'. There are no pipes or cables so Chip & I had to hold the ropes bow and stern to keep Ithaka steady. We locked through with one other boat. It was a very impressive lock, we felt so small sitting up against the wall. I thought I'd add several "inside the Lock" photos on this post to give you the feeling...Another very interesting thing about this lock is the east gate is pulled up allowing boats to go under it...I got a little wet as we passed under it. It is one of only 2 locks in North America where the entrance gate is lifted! Now we are in Little Falls where we plan to stay a few days. "Life is good"

Learning the Ropes...Cables and Pipes

We had a great time yesterday! It rained most of the day and by the time we got to Amsterdam we were soaked to the bone and ready for a hot cup of soup and a hot shower. But, learning the locks was a lot of fun and much easier than I thought it would be. Once inside the lock we had to decide on either a port or starboard tie. We are ready on both sides at all times, but usually stuck to the right side in case another boat was waiting on the other side for entry. This also allows for better access for Chip to assist with the lines. He drove from the main salon rather than the flybridge all day...mainly due to the weather, but also to back me up in the locks! I developed my own style in the very first lock, which had pipes (similar to cables) as opposed to ropes. With cables and pipes you slip your mid-ship line around it, snug it up tight to the cleat onboard and help it move up the pipe or cable as the water comes into the lock while using the boat hook to keep the bow off the wall & the boat straight. Rather than try to get the entire line around the pipe at once I just put the bitter end through and then quickly pulled the rest of the line around. Easy. When there were no pipes or cables, only ropes, I would get the first line and pass it back to Chip with the boat hook so that he didn't have to leave the helm until I reached out and got the rope I was to hold at the bow. Chip would then walk his rope to the stern to keep Ithaka steady. Might be where the expression "learning the ropes" came from?

I thought Chip was completely going "overboard" (no pun intended) with all his "hull huggers"...No one else had their boat so loaded up with fenders and additional protection, but now that we have spent two days locking through I can honestly say, Chip did a wonderful job preparing Ithaka for her trip up the Erie. Those locks are slimy...and Ithaka is none the worse for the wear after 13 locks.

Amsterdam was just a place to spend the night...we didn't do any exploring. But, today we docked after Lock 12 and took the dinghy over to Schoharie Crossing. What's left is 6 of the 14 original arches in the aqueduct which was built over the Schoharie Creek in 1825. It was 600' long when it was completed and you can still see clearly where the water went through and where the mules walked above on the tow paths. This entire area has enormous historical significance. Whether one travels by car, train or boat you follow routes echoing names, places and events that nourished our heritage.

Tonight we are in Canajoharie...another little village along the canal that time seemed to forget. As we walked through the streets we realize that the citizens are doing their best to rekindle the fire that once burned in the soul of this town by creating art galleries and music in the park and renovating the beautiful structures...a few antique stores and gift shops fill the mostly empty storefronts on the main street. Just a side note; Beech-Nut foods started here in 1891 and the granddaughter of the founder gave over $8 million for a library and museum.

Old Trails, Old Cars and Oldies

We have really enjoyed the past few days here in the little Village of Waterford- It rained on and off for the first two days we were here, but we didn't let that dampen our spirits...We rode our bikes everywhere! Sometimes between the raindrops, sometimes taking shelter under a lock bridge or thick tree canopy. We rode for miles along the tow path of the old Champlain Trail...evidence of the original locks and spillways (see photo), although overgrown, were still visible. Most of the time we were the only ones on the paths for miles and miles on end-It was cool and moist and the air was fresh and smelled like wet leaves; the colors of green were extreme.

We went to the Waterford Historical Museum and saw a hands on reproduction of the first lock, E-2 from 1825. It was a very interesting museum housed in an old white Greek revival mansion along the Mohawk River. The exhibits retraced the footsteps of the people who have lived in this area back to the Indians who knew the convergence of the two rivers was a fertile place and strategically important in defending the area as well. We went over to Peeples Island and spent some time at the visitor's center. It is a state park...a 191 acre oasis where folks were enjoying picnicking, canoeing and hiking. We had a spectacular view from the one-car bridge coming back into Waterford of the city dock and Ithaka.

We also went to a wonderful antique car show...over 100 cars! On Sunday, after a very nice service at St. Mary's we went to the All Paul Show at Riverside Park (a very good Paul McCartney impersonator)...This little village rocks! It was fun singing along to all the old Beetles and Wings song! We went to the grocery store by dinghy-Yup! The Price Chopper in Troy had docks "for people who like to eat and boat", read the sign! It's been a very restful and fun few days...a lot pretty sunsets...a lot of really nice people!

Now we head up the Waterford Flight, a set of 5 lift locks that will raise us up nearly 170' into the Mohawk River Valley...the Flight is the highest incline in the shortest distance of any lock system in the world. The adventure continues!

Unlocking the legends

When you're lock rookies like us, it's best to make your way through the Federal Lock in Troy in bad weather...Not a lot of boat traffic (just kidding).

Truth is, it was a very satisfying moment as we made our way through, soaked to the bone, smiling from ear to ear...it wasn't as tough as people said it would be and I am totally looking forward to this leg of our adventure! (click on inset photo to read sign)

We bid farewell to Catskill, cruised under the Rip Van Winkle bridge, past the Athens-Hudson lighthouse, past sleepy towns and lovely homes along the way, past the state capital - Albany; onward to the single most important reason why New York IS the Empire State, The Erie Canal! The most successful engineering marvel of the 19th century, it was built between 1817 & 1825, is 363 miles long and connects the Great Lakes to the Atlantic Seaboard. When governer DeWitt Clinton proposed the idea of connecting the waterways he was scoffed by his opponents...but, he was vindicated when opening the canal opened commerce, encouraged national unity, created economic power and sealed the deal making New York City the nation's prime seaport and the seat of world trade! for more info log onto: http://www.epodunk.com/routes/erie-canal/index.html

Today we are in Waterford...the dockmasters are the friendliest we've met along our journey. We snugged in overnight at the pump-out station because there wasn't any other "room at the inn". By 6 AM we heard an engine start up so I jumped off the boat and waited down the dock while Chip turned Ithaka around and pulled into the best spot on the city's free floating docks!

A neat little side story: When we were in Savannah last month, returning to the boat the night before we left, there was a note left on Ithaka's door (someone had recognized us as "loopers" because of our burgee). We never met, but we've been emailing back and forth ever since..."Did you catch up yet"? Imagine our surprise when we pulled into Waterford and saw what we thought was their boat! Chip yelled over, "Are you James and Rennie?" and they said, "Yes" and Chip said, "hi, we're Ithaka"! We haven't met many other loopers along the way, so it's always fun to hook up with another crazy couple and share stories...We went down to their boat, The Arundel, and had a beer and I'm sure we'll see more of them along the canal.

We'll be staying here a few days (the slip rent is the right price) and begin our exploration of this fascinating area as we begin to "unlock" the legends of the Erie Canal.

The Artist's Trail

We took a vote and it was unanimous...we will stay in Catskill till Wednesday! Aside from the obvious (we're right over the bridge from Frank and Denise)...we just love this little town! Everything we need is within walking distance from the boat...a small grocery, the post office, an ice cram shop, plus the marina is great: clean, nice staff, a swimming pool and an amazing view from the stern of Ithaka...deer show up at sunset to drink from the creek right across from our boat. (see photo)

On Saturday we took the dinghy to the local Farmer's Market where music played and artisans displayed their crafts. We bought delicious fresh blueberries for our Sunday morning pancakes as well as sweet corn and tomatoes...I wanted everything in sight! Once a month Catskill has a "Saturday night Stroll on Main Street"...all the shoppes, galleries and restaurants stay open till nine. On one corner a young man played the cello...the whole town is buzzing (or should I say purring) with their Cats on display. We were glad to be here for the stroll. We ate amazing burgers at Belle's Cafe. Sunday was a lazy day...we did a little house-keeping then I read a book while getting some sun, Chip wrote in his journal, we went for a swim then went to Frank and Denise's for dinner...Missy and the girls were there. Frank offered us his truck which we happily accepted...

On Monday we took a drive in the country....we did the Greene County "loop". I wanted to find some of the places where the Hudson River School artists painted...we went to Palenville, town of the very first artist's colony in America. Then we followed the map to Kaaterskill Clove to see the ancient arch of the distant green mountains depicted so often in the paintings I love...Bastion Falls (visible right from the road) Haines Falls, North-South Lake and the Catskill Forest Preserve where many found their inspiration....Sunset Rock...the trees and serenity of South Lake...Inspiration Point...Palenville Overlook. Just think of their determination so many years ago to seek out these hidden places. For the best view of the Hudson River valley we took a short hike up a rugged path to the ledge of a 3000' escarpment where the Catskill Mountain House once stood. In its heyday between 1850's-1870's it catered to 400 guests a night. From this place you can see 5 states...the clouds were magnificent and although we were only 12 miles inland the Hudson River looked like a thin, blue satin ribbon in the distance...the colorful patchwork of the farms added to the beauty (to enlarge, click on inset photo). for more info log onto: http://www.hudsonvalleyruins.org/yasinsac/catskill/catskill.html

We are feeling extremely blessed for the experiences we have shared here in this extraordinary place. God is good.

Cat'n around Catskill

We are going stay in Catskill for awhile. We are long overdue for some R & R...the physical and mental aspects of this trip were underestimated by both of us...and with my ribs and bruises still pretty tender from my fall I am in need of a respite before heading into the Erie canal and its arduous locks...

It's really nice here. Sweet little village with a Main Street going through a resurgence. The marina we are staying at has a pool and a helpful staff. The view from the back of our boat down the cove is like a Frederick Church painting ...and we are walking distance to downtown.

It couldn't be more purr-fect.

Yesterday we walked into town and went directly to the Chamber of Commerce office and got a walking tour of Main Street along with a list of the 50 Cats which have been painted by local artists and placed along the sidewalks for all to enjoy (kinda' like the Mermaids we saw in Beaufort, S.C.). The Cats are so much fun! It is a Summer long celebration called Cat'n around Catskill. We went back to the Chamber after checking them all out twice and voted for our favorites (a few of which are highlighted on this post).

We also walked up to the home and studio of Thomas Cole, founder of the Hudson River School of Art and father of American landscape painting. The art movement that he launched had a major influence on America's understanding of its natural environment. It was really neat being in a master's studio and examining the light...unfortunately, they would not allow me to take any photographs inside either the studio or his home.

Two of his finest students were Frederick Church, whose home, Olana (we visited a few years ago...the last time we were here in the Hudson River valley) is just across the river from Cole's home (Cedar Grove). I tried to photograph it from our boat (see picture)....and Asher Durand, whose work, Intimate Observations, is being exhibited at the Cole home through October. His paintings of trees are some of my favorites...

It is no wonder why so many artists have been inspired by this lovely place...why, I may even get my paints out today and see what unfolds.

History on the Hudson

We've had a fabulous time in the Hudson River valley...Kingston was a great stop; very central to many of the places we wanted to see so we rented a car for a couple of days and found our way around...up one side of the river then down the other. Although we did spend Sunday on a nice, leisurely cruise (imagine how relaxing not having to worry about charts) with Denise & Frank (parents of the groom), Seana (their granddaughter) and Denise's sister Carrie with husband Jim (new boaters).

On Monday we drove to West Point and took the tour of the grounds with a wonderful guide...her son just finished his first year as a cadet and her husband is in Iraq. Her love of our country and pride in its army was obvious. She was a wealth of knowledge...West Point's role in our nation's history dates back to the Revolutionary war- both sides realizing the strategic importance of controlling its position. The Hudson River was the main north to south corridor for all ships. In 1779 Washington even transferred his headquarters there...It is the oldest, continuously active military post in America. The list of graduates is impressive: Eisenhower, MacArthur, Bradley, Patton, Stilwell, Swartzkopf. A visit to the museum on site is also a must. I especially enjoyed the "History of Warfare" gallery. The new cadets who had only arrived last week were marching on the parade ground...we watched them for awhile; these children becoming men and women right before our eyes.

Yesterday we went to see the "gilded" Vanderbilt Estate, the gardens are spectacular...lily ponds and landscaped hills rolling right down to the Hudson. Then right "next door" we went to FDR's home and Presidential library...it was America's first Presidential library-and the only one actually used by a sitting president; he designed it himself. It was an amazing collection of his papers, letters, personal treasures, even his car! A replica of the "secret map room" in the White House basement where evidence found 50+ years later allowed those who put the room together for display using old photographs and documents. In his home, which his mother named Springwood, we were allowed to walk through and actually see the room where Roosevelt was born, the room where he lived as a child...the room where he lived as an adult...the cloak he wore in Yalta and the top hat still in the closet which he wore at each of his 4 inaugurations, the hand-pulled elevator he used to hoist himself to the second floor. We went to the stables...and the rose garden where he and Eleanor are buried...a simple quiet place.

Lunch in Rhinebeck at Beekman Arms, America's oldest Inn, open since 1766! Yes, George Washington slept there.

We then went, on what Chip likes to call, a "Michele Deek"...Opus 40 is an environmental sculpture built in a bluestone quarry by artist Harvey Fite who spent 37 years creating the unusual 6 acre landscape using traditional quarryman's tools...I can't help it, I love finding these secret places that people who live 30 minutes away don't even know about. He single handedly moved stones (some as large as nine tons using ancient Egyptian methods of leverage) all toll there are over 34 thousand tons of bluestone in his sculpture (see inset photo). He died in 1976 while working on his masterpiece. He thought it would take him 40 years to complete. I'm glad we went off the beaten path to find it.

Lucky 7's

We went to a wedding on Saturday...our timing could not have been better. If someone had told us 2 months ago that we would have been pulling into Rondout Creek just in time for Drew and Ronda's wedding we would have doubted their confidence in us, but as luck would have it, we made it! I knew we'd be on time when we got to New York City for the 4th of July fireworks! I'm sure a lot of folks got married on 07-07-07, but we were at the best wedding of all! Drew is my dear friend Denise's son and I have always had a soft spot for him...Andrew is a wonderful young man and he and Ronda make a beautiful couple. They were married at Saint Mark's church in Hudson, it was the young minister's first wedding! I imagine a minister never forgets his first wedding, and this wedding will be unforgettable....the bridesmaids dresses were a lovely shade of orange, the mothers of the bride and groom both wore sage and were given white roses by the respective new children-in-law thanking them for welcoming them into their hearts and their family...at that moment there were few dry eyes in the church. At the reception, when they got up to have their first dance, Ronda came over to me and gave me her bouquet...I was speechless...it is the most beautiful bouquet I've ever seen! She will never know how she endeared herself to me with that sincere and generous gesture. (see photo of flowers on Ithaka's stern).

It was a sweet wedding from start to finish...and although the newlyweds went to Las Vegas for their honeymoon, they will need no luck for a happy life together...they have all the right ingredients for a long and loving marriage. God Bless you Drew and Ronda and thank you for making us such an important part of your special day...and your wedding one of the best experiences of Ithaka's voyage.

Up the River

We left the marina in New York harbor early the morning of the 5th and began our trip up the Hudson River...as the New York Skyline faded behind us we cruised under the George Washington bridge remembering how just a couple of years ago we drove over it and said, "In just a couple of years we'll be cruising under this bridge up the Hudson." Just past the bridge we began to experience the river's magic...the cliffs, known as The Palisades rise up 300 to 500 feet...The Hudson River is actually a fjord created by glaciers, it is deep and dramatic...it has been, at times, described as one of the most beautiful rivers in the world and we were about to understand why.

Past Yonkers, past Dobbs Ferry, past Piermont Pier where over 1 million soldiers were shipped to the Normandy invasion in WWII; past familiar names from my childhood when we drove up to Westchester County and Ulster County to visit family...past Sleepy Hollow and past West Point (where my Dad and I once visited together)...past the ruins of a scottish castle on Pollepol Island...in water deeper than Ithaka has ever had under her hull-170' at one point...past the Appalacian Trail which crosses the river at Bear Mountain bridge...past Sing Sing (which Chip thinks is where the term, "being sent up the river" must have come from)...past Haverstraw Bay and its frolicking sailboats, past FDR's home in Hyde Park...through the Adirondack mountains, past swans swimming in coves...We landed in Kingston on July 6th about halfway to Troy where our journey will turn west as we enter the Erie canal...It is no wonder why the Hudson River artists were so inspired by the natural scenery of this river...The towns which once prospered as shipping and manufacturing centers are now going through a rebirth as urbanites make their way with their antique shops and gourmet restaurants to Kingston and Hudson and Catskill...Did you ever wonder why so many towns in this area end in "kill"? The Dutch discovered and settled much of this area and kill means creek or small river in Dutch.

Anyway, we are now happy to be discovering the Hudson River Valley ourselves!

Enter the Golden Door

Just try to imagine the feeling that millions of immigrants felt when arriving in America- After a voyage that sometimes lasted more than a month; in deplorable conditions, clinging only to their meager belongings and their dreams...their hopes greater than their fears- Imagine the emotions as their ships turned into New York Harbor and their eyes beheld Lady Liberty for the first time. They had arrived these courageous souls as the statue greeted the "tired and the poor...huddled masses longing to breathe free..."

When we motored into New York Harbor it was without a doubt one of the most memorable experiences, not only of our journey, but of our lives. Chip, Fern and I sat together up on the fly bridge as we turned into the harbor, a skyline before us unlike any other on earth when we spotted the lady in the distance. How can we possibly know how our ancestors felt...But, we are in awe of their bravery, their faith and their desire to live in America...and her message, "I lift my lamp to the Golden Door" never impressed me more. She led us in as we laughed and cried and celebrated our accomplishment. It was fantastic!

It only made sense that we would spend the next day at Ellis Island. My mom had never been there before. It was a wonderful day for all of us...especially after going through the experience of coming to New York by boat and seeing the Statue of Liberty from that perspective. Afterwards we took the ferry over to Manhattan...went to the World Trade Center Site and Trinity Church. Met my brother Joe for dinner at Katz's Deli...Remember the movie: When Harry Met Sally? "I'll have whatever she's having" is the famous line spoken while they ate Pastrami at Katz's. Yummy!

Ithaka had a special visitor on July 4th...my very dear friend and former art teacher, Fred, spent the afternoon with us...what a treat for me to see him! I love that he brought me a bouquet of flowers picked from his garden. Joey also came over and stayed till after the fireworks (which were incredible) when he and my mom then left together for Brooklyn, leaving Chip and me off on our own again...now we're going to take it real slow up the Hudson...

America's First Seaside Resort

Although the first explorers to test the waters of the New Jersey coastline were the Italians John Cabot and his son Sebastian sailing under the English flag; it was Captain Cornelius Mey who in 1623 led a flotilla of 3 ships for the Dutch West India Company who came to the area and loved it so he named it after himself. Later it was anglicized to May.

Today when one thinks of Cape May they think of Victorian Homes. Due to a fire in 1878 which destroyed nearly the whole town, it was rebuilt over the next 20 years making Cape May a virtual architectural time capsule. We took the Victorian Home tour and were completely enchanted by the turrets and porches and gingerbread trim and colors of these lovely ladies, of which so many are referred. Even on a dreary day the Victorian gardens and color combinations of the shutters and front doors were so bright and cheerful. Because the sun wasn't out the streets were bustling with the first big crowd of the Summer season...the beaches were deserted, but the shops were crowded. We enjoyed our walk along the boardwalk and we strolled up and down the tree-lined streets snapping more photos here than anywhere else we've been so far on our trip!

Yesterday we headed north on the outside waters then made our way through the very tight channel at Barneget Light Inlet along with dozens of other boats into the wide and beautiful Barneget Bay. Hundreds of sailboats maneuvered around us, it was so much fun to watch...The bay is 6-8 feet deep all the way across plus it is very well protected...it's the perfect playground for these wind loving sailors.

Today we are in Tom's River. We picked up Fern at Aunt Dot and Uncle George's home nearby and we all went to dinner together. It was so wonderful for me to see all of George's artwork framed and hung throughout their home. Dot and George have been friends with my parents for over 60 years, which really makes them more like family. I can honestly say that when George gives me a hug I can feel my Dad nearby.

Tomorrow we are off to New York Harbor for what I'm sure will be one of the greatest thrills of this voyage and we are so happy that Mom will be with us to share this experience.

Morning Haze, Afternoon Daze

We left Baltimore early, Chip said we were probably the first boat out in the entire harbor, and made our way to the C & D canal. First considered in the 1600's, it wasn't until Ben Franklin proposed it again that the work commenced...it was completed in the 1820's and connects the Chesapeake Bay to the Delaware Bay. We bid farewell to the Chesapeake...a magnificent cruising day; the water was a light chop, the sun was shining. We could have spent the entire Summer exploring this beautiful estuary...we've decided we will come back again someday to linger for awhile.

A little more than half-way (the C & D canal is 14 miles long) and we stayed overnight at the Summit Marina in Bear, Delaware...the only place on this stretch where you can get fuel. Another early start, we watched the sun come up, bound for Cape May, New Jersey! The morning haze was mystical, no other boats were in the channel and we felt blessed to be alone sharing this time with the early birds. About 2 hours into the cruise down the Delaware I took quite a spill, straight down the stairs from the flybridge...I think I hit every step...afternoon daze! Once docked at our destination, the fellow who runs the marina drove me to the nearby emergency room for X-rays...luckily nothing is broken! I'm black and blue from head to toe...the bruised ribs hurt the most. I told Chip, Ithaka now officially has two dinghies! :-)

Oh say can you see?

Just under the Francis Scott Key bridge, before even entering Baltimore's Harbor, we located the bouy on our chart then spotted it out on the water (painted red, white and blue) marking the place where Key, a prisoner on an English ship, penned the poem which would become our National Anthem. "By the dawn's early light" Key saw in the distance the "broad stripes and bright stars" at Fort Mc Henry...

We had a great time in Baltimore (in spite of a few more mechanical problems)...I thought if you bought a new boat you wouldn't have to worry about these little things! Anyway, waiting at Ithaka for mechanics to show up was probably God's way of slowing us down a bit...In between getting Ithaka's bottom scrubbed and all the intake portals cleaned out & the air conditioning fixed (thank goodness, temperatures are breaking records) we did get out to see a lot of the sites. We stayed right downtown at the Inner Harbor Marina which gave us a front row seat of the modern skyline. Plus, the water taxis which take you all over the city had a convenient stop right at the marina!
We took the water taxi to Fells Point, the original old downtown and had lunch at the Broadway Market. We also went to Fort Mc Henry. While downtown we took the tour on the USS Constellation, flagship of The African Squadron. We went to an Orioles game...I got to see my Yankees in Camden Yards. There were as many Yankee fans as Orioles fans at the game! It was a great experience to sing the national anthem in the city where it was written. We had dinner one night in Little Italy with our friend Leigh who lives part time in Baltimore. Afterwards she took us for a little impromtu tour of the city at night, topping it off with a lovely view from atop Federal Hill.

Tonight we are in a nice marina in the middle of The C & D canal which connects the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays...on our way to Cape May tomorrow!

Let's try this again

OK, now that I've learned that when my "blog" asks me if I am sure I want to "navigate away from the page without publishing", I need to say NO, even tho' I thought I had already published post the day before, as I did make a minor photo change...and it needed to be RE-published! Alrighty-then!

Onward, let's see what I can remember...hmmm, the highlights of our visit to Annapolis, perhaps our favorite city so far on the entire journey:

1. The United States Naval Academy: Beautiful grounds, magnificent buildings and architecture, John Paul Jones is buried in a crypt in the chapel...take the walking tour with a guide....their stories are facinating & informative. The list of graduates is VERY impressive...Visiting and learning about this spectacular academy enhanced the respect and appreciaition I already have for the men and women who served and still serve our country.


2. Church Street and State Street: The original town architects designed and placed the state house on a higher hill that the first church. This was done intentionally to stress what was most important to this historic city... Annapolis has always been a political city. It was the Capitol of The United States for 9 months in 1783-1784. George Washington resigned his commission here. The Treaty of Paris was ratified here marking the official end to The Revolution. The state house is the oldest legislative building in continuous use in the country. There are more building on the historic register in Annapolis than any other city in the country.


3. This is truly a "walking" city. We docked our boat in Easton, across the Severn River and walked across the draw bridge into Annapolis. This was about a 5 minute walk. Docking across the river gave us a front seat view of the beautiful city dotted with domes, steeples and spires. Entering the downtown area, red brick streets greet you; flowering baskets hang from every lamp post, narrow alleys originally designed for horse drawn carriages hold surprises around every corner, flags of both the United States and Maryland fly proudly from most homes, the gardens are lovely, an example of the colors they paint their houses are confederate blue with white trim, jet black shutters and cranberry red front doors...


4. At the city dock we envisioned the place where Kunta Kinte first stepped onto American soil. There is a memorial to him and a lovely bronze sculpture, a tribute to Alex Haley, who wrote the book Roots. It is well worth taking the time to walk around the dock and read each plaque. We sat on a bench and ate ice cream cones and watched all the crazy boaters manuvering in this skinny dock.


5. Charles Carroll was the only Catholic to sign the Declaration of Independence. Since Catholics were not allowed to practice their religion until after the Revolution, Charles held mass in a private chapel in his home. We visited the breathtaking church, St. Mary's, which was built on his land. I thought the neatest thing of all was the entire ceiling was a depiction of the heavens on the day the church was completed. An artist painted the stars, moon and constellations of that day! (see photo inset)


6. There were so many boats in Annapolis. Big boats, little boats, sail boats, power boats, trawlers, dinner cruise boats, kayaks, yachts, mega yachts...even pirate ships! Such fun for us to just sit on the back of Ithaka and watch the endless parade.

Well, that just about sums it up. We really enjoyed Annapolis...she really did steal our hearts...we really will go back again someday!

Annapolis stole our hearts

UGH! I was just showing Chip my last blog post and something happened and I erased the entire thing!
F *$@# !

I guess I'll rewrite it another time. In the meantime, I think I'll go have a glass of wine...

Expect the Unexpected

When a few days go by between blog posts I am sometimes a bit overwhelmed with information and I don't know quite where to begin...what to include and what to leave out...I don't want it to be boring, but I don't want to forget a thing either!

This has been a busy week. We visited Deltaville and Solomons Island...both places held a few surprises for us...The battle of the bilge and other events of hysterical signifigance...anyone who has ever owned a boat knows, you must expect the unexpected...

The cruise to Deltaville was pleasant. The eastern shore of the Chesapeake Bay was like a pond on Monday. Once docked we booked a mechanic for the following morning to do a routine oil change, filters and such...it took a little longer than expected and there were a few more maintenence items than we planned on and so an extra day in Deltaville was inevitable. The cruise to Solomons Island on Wednesday wasn't as nice as Monday's trip...The 1'-2' seas predicted on all websites turned out to be a tad underestimated as we dealt with 4'-6' waves most of the way there. We were tired and wet and after a hot shower the last thing we expected was another maintenance issue...this was when we realized all that bouncing around probably busted the shower bilge...hmmm...water on board, not a good thing...Again we located a mechanic. Bad news: another delay. Good news: another delay. (Sometimes things just have to happen to make you slow down, even when you're on a trip like this.)

We stayed the extra day in Solomons and would recommend a stop at this idyllic island for anyone cruising the Chesapeake. We ate our very first blue crab dinner at Kingfishers, it was fabulous! We still like our stone crabs at home better, but it was fun none the less.

There are so many Ospreys in this area. Somebody told me there are more nesting Osprey in the Chesapeake Bay than any other place on Earth. I believe it. I think every daymarker has a nest with 2 or 3 babies. The lighthouses are so interesting here, too. Many are built either on islands or in the water off-shore marking shoals...and most are not your typical cylinder shaped (see pictures). Imagine the life of a lighthouse keeper? That light had to burn, regardless of the weather, day and night. Many lived in the lighthouses with their families, raised chickens, goats, grew vegetables...I think it would get lonely.

-Leaving Solomons Island on Thursday, the sun was shining, the weather report cleared us for an easy cruise...a light chop greeted us when we reached the bay and we were glad to be moving on. Out of nowhere, just minutes before entering the Severn River a storm kicked up. We phoned ahead and asked the dockmaster how things looked and he assured us the storm was to our east and would likely go around us...we felt otherwise and thank goodness Chip decided we should go below and steer from the cabin rather than the flybridge. We listened as nervous boaters radioed the Coast Guard for assistance...we heard reports of 60 mph gusts and we knew we were in the middle of it. No sooner did it hit and it was over...one of our eisenglass windows blew out...this was by far our most perilous brush with Mother Nature so far.

We're fine now...trying to find another mechanic...the dinghy motor would not start today and the eisenglass needs to be repaired...ah the joy of owning a boat...expect the unexpected...and truthfully, once you've got that down it really IS a joy...or at least it is hysterical!

Fathers, Fore Fathers and Freedom

We spent a wonderful Father's day doing whatever Chip wanted to do...he opted for a day jam-packed with U.S history.

We rented a car (we were anchored in Hampton, about a 30 minute ride) and first drove to the Visitor's Center in Colonial Williamsburg; got the lay of the land...it really helps you to know ahead of time what is available to see in this very "theme park-like" setting. We had lunch in a replica tavern called King's Arm and enjoyed chicken pottage pyes and old dominiam lager, served by a costumed interpreter. We knelt in the church once attended by George Washington, the pew he donated to the parrish is inscribed with his name. Colonial Williamsburg is situated on over 300 acres, many of the homes, halls, businesses and churches are original....and all set up to reflect a town of living history. A time before and during the American Revolution when the English thought America's Declaration of Independence was a sham-Everyone who works there is an "actor"... the actors interact with the crowds and really give you a sense of that time. There are "plays" going on in the streets as actors draw you into their dialogue, you feel their thoughts, attitudes and values. It was very moving.

From Williamsburg we drove along The Colonial Trail ( a beautiful ride)to Jamestown (they are celebrating their 400 year anniversary this year and THE Queen was recently here). We then drove to Yorktown and walked on the site of the Battle of Yorktown, well marked with a beautiful monument to freedom, The Yorktown Victory Monument at Liberty Square. This was the highlight of the day for us. Overlooking the James River, with the battery behind us we could simply close our eyes and imagine that moment when England finally surrendered...The home of Augustine Moore still stands where officers from both sides met to negotiate the terms of the surrender.

Who can know all the dreams our fathers have for us...and their fathers and the fathers before them...one thing however is certain...we were there, on that spot, standing on a battlement, looking out over the James River...experiencing a rich moment thanks to the sacrifice our fore fathers made for the sake of freedom.

Zero means so much!

Guess what we did today? We crossed over ICW mile marker ZERO in Norfolk Virginia! Yahoo! What an awesome feeling...we've counted down the miles since leaving "the keys" nearly 5 weeks ago...and today's anticipation of that moment was filled with so many emotional experiences...
I am no longer a "Lock Virgin"! Double yahoo! We went through the very first lock of our voyage just south of Norfolk in the Virginia Cut (also referred to as The Chesapeake-Albemarle Canal). It was so much easier than I thought it would be...and the lock tenders were so helpful.

Along the way today we spotted so many ospreys and their babies perched atop nests in most of the channel markers...we also saw herons and bald eagles. For much of the trip we had to be on the lookout for "dead heads" (no, we didn't see any 60's hippies listening to The Grateful Dead along the shore). Dead heads are logs which aren't water logged enough to sink, but enough to float just below the surface. We decided to take the Virginia Cut as opposed to The Dismal Swamp mainly because of depth issues, but if we ever do this trip again, we may try the other route (did I just say, "If we ever do this trip again"?) Just the sound of the name: Dismal Swamp...I want to go there.

Then into Norfolk Harbor we cruised...until you actually see this port in person and especially from the water you can't imagine the expanse of military represented: the region's rich naval history...countless battleships and aircraft carriers, jets flying overhead, numerous signs depicting restricted areas, Coast Guard boats patrolling the basin, American flags waving off the stern of every ship! We passed the USS Wisconsin and will try to make the time to tour her. She's the length of more than 3 football fields-one of the largest and last battleships built by the U.S. Navy.

The Chesapeake Bay is the largest estuary on the east coast (we were in the 2nd largest just a few days ago; Pamlico Sound, which separates the inner from the outer banks). We are looking forward to exploring the areas around Norfolk and Hampton, Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown...then we'll criss cross our way up the east and west coast of this magnificent body of water. (an informative website is: www.baydreaming.com )

Life is filled with milestones, big and small, many of them end in zero...and everyone knows,"zero means so much"! Okay, starting tomorrow we're back to mile one, but the numbers go up from here!

Quiet Surprises

We found Oriental, N.C. to be an eclectic little town (population barely 1000 but 3000 boats registered). These folks have their priorities straight. That which began as a stop-over became a place we stayed an extra day and would probably go back someday. That's one of the neatest things about a trip like this...anyone can go to the "famous cities", but it's the quiet surprises along the way that really makes it so worthwhile. We stayed right at the Oriental Marina, best seat in town (great view of harbor & pretty sunsets). The locals having coffee in rocking chairs on the front porch of The Bean (great stop for coffee right across the street from the docks) yelled over to us, "Good morning Naples!" We walked to the grocery & marine stores (about a mile from the marina) and resupplied...on our way back to the boat a very nice man gave us a lift....A visit to the cooperative art gallery exhibited many talented local artists, Oriental inspires creativity! This place is just so NICE! We also met our first "loopers" in Oriental (looper is a term used to describe someone who is on the Great Circle Cruise). Milton and Fran from St. Louis on Sea Fox have been traveling for almost a year! They are wonderful folks and Milton is filled with good tips and interesting ideas! We will probably see them again along the way, but at the rate they're traveling we'll probably be back around to St. Louis before they will. Good for them!

Next stop was Belhaven, N.C. Very choppy...up to 5-6 footers in the Neuse River! Not a fun travelling day! Not much to say about Belhaven, except we went to the museum which was upstairs from the Police department. The Belhaven Museum is listed on some website as one of the top ten weirdest places to see in North Carolina, so you know I had to go! It was definitely weird. Ripley would have a field day there! Guess you'll have to go yourself sometime and see what I mean. The two headed baby pig in the jar of formaldehyde is just a tempter...

Today was a very long run to Coinjock Marina...our last night in North Carolina. We met back up with Milton and Fran and they invited us over to celebrate...today is their 1 year anniversary living on their boat! I can't even imagine! Next stop, Hampton Virginia! Chesapeake Bay, here we come! Let's see how many "quiet surprises" we can find there...

"Can you hear me now?"

We left Wrightsville early and cruised to Swansboro on Monday...the ICW passes right through Camp Lejeune's firing range. Obviously, they were not conducting manuevers! When they are, this area is closed and one must wait it out until the "coast is clear"...hours, sometimes days. We did however get to see marines along the five mile stretch, some close enough to wave back as I threw kisses and waved our American flag! I didn't take any photos, I wasn't sure if I was allowed to, but the picture of them waving to me will stay in my heart.

Swansboro was another quaint little town...we docked at Casper's (much nicer than Dudley's) and walked along the waterfront. Ate a nice dinner on board, turned in early...

The ride from Swansboro to Oriental was by no means monotonous. For the first 20 miles we had Bogue Sound to our starboard side. This part of the "banks", from Cape Fear to Cape Lookout, is not as remote. There are pretty houses, painted bright colors, with tin roofs and lattice, long docks and lots of boats. Historians say that explorer Veranzano first approached this area in 1524 and it is believed his account is the first written description of America.

It was near the turning basin in Morehead City that we spotted Canada Geese for the first time on this trip. Here we turned almost due west, heading away from the coast to our next destination; Oriental. Our cell phone and internet connection is so bad where we are, don't be surprised if you don't hear from us again till Norfolk! "Can you hear me now?"

101 Bridges

Well, we will have been gone for 4 weeks tomorrow. We went over the 1000 mile mark today...since leaving Naples on May 14th we have now logged 1007 nautical miles...17 marinas and one anchorage...We've gone under 101 bridges (several were "swing" and some were draw bridges that we didn't actually go under!) Oh, our favorite bridge tender thus far was a sweet lady at ICW mile 1014, Parker Bridge. Most memorable bridge: Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine.

Looking back, aside from the obvious: (Navnet, computer, cell phone, charts, video camera) I'd say my favorite things on board have been: our bikes, my flip flops, zip-loc bags, the fly swatter & the 1/2 dozen white terry clothes my mom suggested I buy. (thank you Mom, you were right!) Chip's favorite thing to have on board is me...no actually, it's windex and paper towels (I feel like I'm away with the dad on My Big Fat Greek Wedding)...He also enjoys his binoculars. He is awesome at spotting wildlife!
We had a wonderful visit with his cousin Holly yesterday in Myrtle Beach. She drove over 120 miles in each direction just to have lunch with us (thank you Jack for making that happen, and thank you Holly for driving so far to see us). We were reminded that we are in charge of Chip's next family reunion in 2010. I think we need to combine it with my family reunion...oh yeah...a bunch a Italians from New York with the Harris'...Bada bing bada boom! Let's do it!

Jack took us to Waites Island; remote and uninhabited, it was pristine. The northern most barrier island in South Carolina. (see pictures). Magnificent views...long stretches of dunes and wide sandy beaches.

We left the marina at dawn and cruised through Cape Fear River and Snow's Cut. Arrived in Wrightsville after 3 PM. Once we were docked we sat up on the fly bridge and watched all the boats go by in this busy port. So many folks drove by Ithaka and either gave us a thumbs up or would tell us they loved our boat; she's a beauty!

Georgetown to Myrtle Beach

After leaving Charleston we headed north on the ICW and made great time riding with the tide. (great time for a trawler is about 9 knots :-) We stayed in Belle Isle marina which is about a 10 minute cab ride into Georgetown (the picture featured is along the Georgetown waterfront). We had Rudy, the cab driver (who I think is also the Mayor) drop us off at the Chamber of Commerce. There we met two lovely ladies who were happy to give us maps & magazines and directed us to The Swamp Fox Tours down the main street. We met Rose Mary, our guide and we were the only 2 on the last tour of the day so we really got the royal treatment. Rose Mary was a wonderful story teller; sharing yarns about William Doyle Morgan, Frances Marion, Mary Man and my favorite: Theodosia Burr Alston. Theodosia set sail for New York to visit her father only to never be seen again; it is suspected she was taken over by pirates, probably Blackbeard...most of Rose Mary's stories began with "Legend has it..." which of course, I believe them all completely; especially the ghost stories, of which Georgetown is filled! Thank you Rose Mary, you are one of Georgetown's priceless treasures and one of the nicest people we've met on our trip.

Yesterday's cruise up The Waccamaw River was possibly the most beautiful ride of our trip so far. For several miles up the river we looked for old Plantations, which over a century ago dotted the shoreline. It was obvious why rice was such a profitable crop. One segment in particular, where we went about 20 miles and rarely saw another boat, left us completely in awe. There is very little development along this trek, only the hand of God directs the flow of this mystical river. The water is as dark as black tea and the cypress trees grow right out of the water along the edge. We saw osprey nests by the dozens...water birds by the hundreds...lily pads by the thousands. As far as you can see this primordial forest stretches out in every direction. At times it was narrow and winding, always it was romantic and inspiring. We rode against the tide, which was a blessing, as it literally forced us to take our time and breathe in this magical place.

Soon after leaving Waccamaw River and getting back on the ICW homes, condos and golf courses started springing up everywhere...I got a big kick out of a sign on one home's backyard that had one arrow pointing north which read: "New York 657 miles" and one arrow pointing south which read, "Miami 720 miles"...Wow! We are more than half way to New York Harbor!

We arrived in Myrtle Beach last night and went to dinner with Chip's cousin Jack. We decided to stay on again today and are hoping to see a few more cousins...and maybe get a massage (I might as well take advantage of civilization, no?)

The Heart of the Lowcountry

Charleston has a lot of Heart! This beautiful city welcomed us with open arms and it was difficult for us to leave her embrace. Although we saw most of what we wanted to see the first two days here, we stayed the extra night just to take our bikes out and ride around town; a "self-guided tour" taking in the history of this place, the splendor of the old homes, the holiness of the churches & their cemetaries and the Southern hospitality of the delicious restaurants....In and out of the many alleys and cobbled stone streets, we photographed wrought iron gates which adorn the historic homes like jewelry around a beautiful woman's neck...Named for a man, King Charles II and originally called Charles Towne, there is a strong feminine essence here that nurtures and protects and feeds your soul.

A horse and carriage ride our first day here proved to be the best way to really get a nice overview. Our driver, a young man with a history degree, was a wealth of information and gave us a sense of the pride of this city's people. Charleston is as much about its people as it is about history. We browsed the many booths of The Old City Market, the place where slaves were once bought and sold. Today this open air market sells local art & jewelry and the wonderful sweet grass baskets handmade by the Gullah women, direct descendants of those who were once slaves sold right where they sit today and weave. Market Street itself is lined with shoppes and restaurants...Two of our best finds were not found in any of the travel magazines or websites; small & intimate, located in an old pink house on Pinkney Street, our favorite place for lunch was The Cru Cafe: the best Calamari in the Universe...and Carolina's on Exchange was perfect from start to finish...our biggest treat so far on the entire trip, but well worth it...the grouper was heavenly.

We went to the South Carolina Aquarium which took us on a journey through this beautiful state. From the mountains to the ocean, the rich biodiversity of South Carolina was fun and interesting to experience; especially since we have seen the salt marshes, coastal swamps and ocean inlets firsthand!

The highlight of our stay in Charleston was our tour of Fort Sumter. Only accessible by boat, there is something that comes over you when you walk through the brick arches and enter this place where the first shot of the Civil War was fired. There is no holding back tears when you try to imagine the emotion of that moment. That moment and all the wonderful moments that touched our hearts in Charleston will stay with us forever.

Met Barry in Beaufort

8:00 AM Post: Left Savannah early, cruised through a rainstorm and pulled into Beaufort (pronounced bew, like beau-tiful) just in time to tie Ithaka up good and tight and sit out Tropical Storm Barry...a gentle reminder that it is Hurricane season! We ate ice cream for dinner...did a little laundry, watched a movie, The Aviator and by midnight the 35-40 mph winds had passed and we were able to sleep well. I think we will probably sit tight today, do a little bit of exploring in the rain then head out to Charleston tomorrow.

4:00 PM Post: The rain stopped so we ventured out. We strolled through the downtown area visiting shoppes and galleries and taking photos of beautiful old homes, sailboats anchored in the ICW and mermaids! Beaufort has Mermaid sculptures placed around town; similar to the cows in Chicago, the dolphins in Key West and the alligators in Naples.

"...Just don't burn it!"

Arrived in Savannah yesterday and bought a two day pass on the "get on and get off" tour trolley (we recommend this). We are docked right on the Savannah River with 1000' cargo ships passing within 50 yards of Ithaka! Yikes! This is NOT a no wake zone! That "gentle lull" that I spoke of in an earlier post, forget about it...we rocked and rolled all night. However, Chaz, the dock master was great and we are within walking distance to everything worth walking to, including breakfast at Huey's for the best French toast I've ever had in my life!

Savannah is an interesting little city (current population 136,000). It pre-dates The Revolutionary War. Originally founded by James Oglethorpe in 1733 to buffer South Carolina from Florida; in other words, protect Charleston! A fact: Catholicism was *prohibited because the English thought the Catholics would sympathize with the Spaniards...so much for religious freedom! We visited St John the Baptist Cathedral, breathtaking! We saw where John Wesley preached his first sermon in Savannah, the start of Methodism...also in 1733 Jews from Portugal reached these shores; they worship in the only Gothic styled synagogue in North America and still have their original Torah...I am amazed by this. The oldest African American congregation in North America founded in 1777 and has the oldest "black real estate holding" in America; the present sanctuary was built in the 1850's and housed runaway slaves during the civil war. By the way, Georgia was named for King George II. *The settlers also prohibited hard liquor (Oglethorpe drank beer) and lawyers.

We walked through Colonial Park Cemetery (those who know me well know I have a morbid facination with cemeteries). There aren't any crosses or angels, but a lot of historical figures are buried there. It was interesting to learn how the civil war troops camped out there when they entered the city because they needed grazing for the horses and a place to prop their tents. They decimated many of the tombstones, those which remain are now propped up against a wall (see photo).

There are tiny parks and squares all over the town. Lovely fountains, statues and glorious architecture. Huge Live Oak trees canopy most streets with Spanish moss lavishly hanging over each branch. It was the first planned community; layed out in a grid by Ogelthorpe, originally with 24 squares. Today there are 22. When Oglethorpe arrived he brought with him 114 people. It was a "debtors colony" and they were given a fresh start in the new world. Before cotton the main crop was rice; which isn't hard to imagine because everywhere I look I see marsh land. At one time Savannah determined the price of cotton for the world! It is still the 3rd largest container port in North America. There are 11,000 buildings registered in Savannah as historic. Savannah takes preservation seriously. There is a fabulous art school, Savannah College of Art and Design (better know SCAD). It began in 1979 with 71 students. Today there are over 7000 students making it the largest art and design school in the country. The school is a big part of the historic preservation as many of the students undertake restorations as part of their curriculum...the only college where you can actually get a degree in Historic Preservation!

Savannah is one of few Confederate cities spared by the Union troops. General Sherman presented President Lincoln with the city as a Christmas gift, "You can have it, just don't burn it!" The charm and beauty of this city was respected, even in war.

...in the words of Ray Charles, "Other arms reach out to me, other eyes smile tenderly. Still in peaceful dreams I see, the road leads back to you."
...and we will be back someday.

Jekyll and "Hide"

Yesterday we visited the famed Jekyll Island Club also known as The Millionaire's Club. Again, there's a lot of history on this island, and as is true on most of the other islands that we have come to know as "Georgia's Golden Isles", James Oglethorpe slept here (that man sure got around)!
It was used as a military reservation in the 1700's and passed through many owners including a French settler, Christopher Poulain DuBignon. He planted Sea Cotton and his family enjoyed yacht racing. They maintained their home on Jekyll for 100 years until the Civil War drove them away. In 1886, the island was bought by the world-renowned Jekyll Island Club. The list of its members read like a chapter from America's book of Who's Who; Vanderbilt, Astor, Rockefeller, Pulitzer, Goodyear. As we walked through the gentlemen's game rooms we could almost smell the cigars and taste the brandy. We couldn't help but imagine the many topics that may have been discussed during the inception of the industrial revolution here in this quaint Winter get-away...I over heard someone say, "isolated splendor" and I thought those words described the place perfectly. We took a tour through the "cottages" (I use that word loosely as they averaged about 8000 sq. ft.) and learned that at one time 1/6th of the world's wealth convened on this tiny island at any one time. It was grand yet unpretentious.

We were glad to have our bikes. The bike paths on Jekell are wonderful; wandering through the maritime forests, along the dunes and throughout the entire historic district on the river.

If yesterday was Jekyll, today is "Hide". We left at first light and made our way north through some skinny water on the ICW and cruised through several large sounds, usually alone as we met few other boats along the way. Most of Georgia's Golden Isles are uninhabited, including St Catherine which may hold the distiction of being the most historic of all. It was the capital of the Creek Indian confederacy...the Spanish based a mission from Florida here in 1566...and of course, James Oglethorpe established an English colony...Mary Musgrove operated a trading post...I am planning to read Burnette Vanstory's Georgia's Land of the Golden Isles to learn more about this area.
One thing that I thought was really cool is that The New York Zoological Society has used St Catherine as a sanctuary for rare and endanged species since 1974. I cannot lie, I did not see any "zoo" animals as we made our way past the island, but my binoculars were ready to spot a zebra or an antelope, if only I had been so lucky!

Now we are hooked up for the night in Kilkenny Creek Marina...the man who runs the place has been here for 46 years...my guess is he's probably in some witness protection program. Chip is fishing and I will cook a nice pasta dinner. I won't leave the cabin tonight because the horse flies are as big as hummingbirds! Our internet connection has been too slow for two days to upload any photos to the blog...I'll make up for that once we hit Savannah!

In the meantime I can honestly say that living in a small space, with the sky as my ceiling and the waves lulling me to sleep at night is something I could get used to....ok, I'm going to Hide, now you're it!

A Feeling Beyond Words

We woke early and left as the sun peaked through the clouds. Cruising past the papermills on the northwest side of Amelia Island, the air smelled like the inside of a cardboard box. The shrimpers hadn't even left their docks yet when we went by. With Fort Clinch behind us, we were finally out of Florida! By 10:30 AM we were at our first stop, Cumberland Island. Since there is no docking allowed we anchored out and took the dinghy in. We were not ready for what we were about to experience. This writer's supply of adjectives doesn't even begin to express the majesty of the maritime forests; live oak trees laden with Spanish moss and sunlight streaming through...endless expanses of salt marsh flats dotted with white egrets...feral horses left behind by conquistadors grazing in grass fields near abandoned artesian wells...wild turkeys...blue heron...butterflies...osprey soaring overhead...nesting sea turtles. To be there, to witness such beauty...we were filled with so much gratitude and A feeling beyond words.

The history of Cumberland Island is interesting. Originally occupied by Timucuan Indians, the Spanish established a mission here. James Oglethorpe built a small fort on the southern tip. We visited an old cemetary where Robert E. Lee's father, "Light-Horse Harry" Lee was buried. He was a friend of General Nathaneal Greene, one of the first to own land and build a home on this island. The home was named Dungeness and it was destroyed during the "War Of Northern Aggression". It still lays in ruins, yet, if you close your eyes you can imagine the parties, the music & the elegance of that time. In 1882 milionaire Thomas Carnegie purchased the island and rebuilt Dungeness. For almost 50 years the Carnegies maintained a vacation home on the island and even some of their children built "cottages", among them Greyfield Inn, one of the most exclusive and romantic places to stay on earth!

Yes, this island is magical. I am so glad we decided to go a bit off course. Anyone who cruises by and doesn't stop has missed a priceless experience, the best of what life has to offer...a place to experience an abundance of nature, a little bit of history...and a feeling beyond words.