Christmas week on Ithaka

I apologize for losing track of the days...soon I'll be home and on a rigid schedule and I'll be booking my appointments right down to the minute...But for now, when someone asks me what day it is, I've been saying, 'it's Christmas week'...and, What time is it?...Uhhh...'Sometime between sunrise and sunset'...

...After 9 days in Mobile, then Gulf Shores Alabama, we were glad to FINALLY get to our home state...Hello Florida! ~The dolphins greeted us and the air felt clean and clear and crisp...the sky was brighter and we knew, we were that much closer to home.

We were quick in and quick out of Pensacola Beach, but it was awesome to take my shoes off and walk in the white sand...crunch crunch...and amazing to lay in the sand and make sand angels! Really pretty beaches! The smell of salt air was very therapeutic. We stayed at Beach Marina on Little Sabine Bay. It was close to the Intracoastal, walking distance to the beach, and had a little grocery store upstairs with a very good wine selection.

From Pensacola we headed to Destin...watched and listened to the jets from the nearby airforce base break the sound barrier...fascinating! In Destin we stayed at Harborwalk Marina, a new facility...minimal assistance with docking and lines, but steps to a few restaurants and a few new shops and galleries (reminded me of The Escalade on Marco Island). It is off-season in the panhandle so nothing is crowded, however shortly after dark the docks were crawling with revelers out to see the annual Destin Christmas Boat Parade. I don't know how we plan (we actually don't plan anything) these things, but the boat parade just happened to be the night we were in town and it just so happened to pass right in front of Ithaka's bow...Yup, front row seats to all the lights, singing and fun! We loved it! Chip however was fast to remind me that Naples' Boat Parade is much better! Again, Destin was a one night stand and we were on to our next stop...

Between Destin and Panama City (which by the way was the prettiest day on the water so far) we transversed through an area referred to as "The Grand Canyon" of Florida...The dunes along the 'ditch' were beautiful...different shades of beige and grey and tan and white...layers upon layers of sand. We saw eagles and osprey...the entire day was a smorgasbord for the eyes! We couldn't help but to just be grateful for all our blessings. Onto Panama City, and as we rounded the bend into Bay Pointe Marina in the Grand Lagoon, God gave us a breathtaking sunset, one for the record book! It was a really nice marina, too--very accommodating staff...We treated ourselves to massages at the spa on site...Much needed and a wonderful gift to each other! The rate at the marina is $430 per month including electric, water and cable...we can see why it was filled to capacity...and for a moment thought about how simple life could be...Once we docked, a couple from a boat the next dock over, recognizing our looper burgee, came over and offered us the use of their car to re-provision...This is just what 'loopers' do. Anyway, we stayed for two nights.

Over to Apalachicola on the 23rd--we were expecting bad weather on Thursday and Friday, so at last we knew: This is where we will be spending Christmas! So...we bought a turkey and all the trimmings and decided to make it a feast; if only for ourselves!

Apalach, that's what the locals call it, turned out to be one of my most favorite small towns on the loop! I'd rate it right up there with Oriental North Carolina, Catskill New York, Leland Michigan and Columbus Mississippi...It reminded me of Goodland Florida times ten...no, times one hundred! A real Old Florida fishing village with lots of local color and flair! Bed and Breakfasts, galleries, nautical antique shops...great photo opportunities! We met Richard Bickel, a photojournalist who at first glance reminded me of Clyde Butcher. His work is mostly in black and white also, but after studying it, I dare say, it is even more poetic than Butcher...Among his followers he is collected by Bill Gates. Richard came to Appalachicola on a photo assignment and then made it his home. He is one of many talented artists that have made this sleepy village their home...We ate lots of oysters and shrimp....unbelievably delicious! We highly recommend Boss' Oyster Bar and That Place In Apalach (mouthwatering gumbo)...Papa Joe's was closed, but we heard it is also very good. We stayed at Scipio Creek Marina...nothing to write home about, but it might just have been the fact that we pulled in late on the 23rd....they were ready to close up shop for the holiday. It was about 8-10 blocks from town, which we walked frequently (including the walk on Christmas morning when we spotted the eagle pictured-click on him to enlarge)...Scipio Creek is a looper sponsor, so we wanted to honor that. Plus, it was snuggled in as far up the creek as we could safely dock, so we were very protected from the wind that whipped through on Christmas Eve...After a candle light service at St. Patrick's (which at one time was the only Catholic church in western Florida) we experienced higher than normal tides...waded back to the boat...35 knot winds...and a boat breaking lose in the marina late in the night heading right for Ithaka! That owner will never know the good Samaritan who saved his boat on Christmas Eve!

Christmas day the cabin was filled with good smells, a turkey in the oven and homemade breads...good sounds, Christmas carols played all day...and lots of love, we opened presents (luckily neither of us took the 'no presents' promise to heart)...We talked to mom a few times as well as the kids and even got to Skype the grandkids! It turned out to be a very special day, one we will never forget...a most profound part of our journey "home"...

Next stop was Carrabelle...Once docked, Tony, the fellow who runs The Moorings Marina, stopped by our boat and helped us chart our course from there to where we are tonight: Steinhatchee...I was really happy he told my captain that he did not recommend a crossing of the gulf all the way to Tarpon Springs this time of year...Now we will hop-scotch our way down the west coast...still unsure of an exact date when we will be home...

*There are too many photos from this week to post, so I hope you will check out our videos on YOUTUBE!