Yesterday we visited the famed Jekyll Island Club also known as The Millionaire's Club. Again, there's a lot of history on this island, and as is true on most of the other islands that we have come to know as "Georgia's Golden Isles", James Oglethorpe slept here (that man sure got around)!
It was used as a military reservation in the 1700's and passed through many owners including a French settler, Christopher Poulain DuBignon. He planted Sea Cotton and his family enjoyed yacht racing. They maintained their home on Jekyll for 100 years until the Civil War drove them away. In 1886, the island was bought by the world-renowned Jekyll Island Club. The list of its members read like a chapter from America's book of Who's Who; Vanderbilt, Astor, Rockefeller, Pulitzer, Goodyear. As we walked through the gentlemen's game rooms we could almost smell the cigars and taste the brandy. We couldn't help but imagine the many topics that may have been discussed during the inception of the industrial revolution here in this quaint Winter get-away...I over heard someone say, "isolated splendor" and I thought those words described the place perfectly. We took a tour through the "cottages" (I use that word loosely as they averaged about 8000 sq. ft.) and learned that at one time 1/6th of the world's wealth convened on this tiny island at any one time. It was grand yet unpretentious.
We were glad to have our bikes. The bike paths on Jekell are wonderful; wandering through the maritime forests, along the dunes and throughout the entire historic district on the river.
If yesterday was Jekyll, today is "Hide". We left at first light and made our way north through some skinny water on the ICW and cruised through several large sounds, usually alone as we met few other boats along the way. Most of Georgia's Golden Isles are uninhabited, including St Catherine which may hold the distiction of being the most historic of all. It was the capital of the Creek Indian confederacy...the Spanish based a mission from Florida here in 1566...and of course, James Oglethorpe established an English colony...Mary Musgrove operated a trading post...I am planning to read Burnette Vanstory's Georgia's Land of the Golden Isles to learn more about this area.
One thing that I thought was really cool is that The New York Zoological Society has used St Catherine as a sanctuary for rare and endanged species since 1974. I cannot lie, I did not see any "zoo" animals as we made our way past the island, but my binoculars were ready to spot a zebra or an antelope, if only I had been so lucky!
Now we are hooked up for the night in Kilkenny Creek Marina...the man who runs the place has been here for 46 years...my guess is he's probably in some witness protection program. Chip is fishing and I will cook a nice pasta dinner. I won't leave the cabin tonight because the horse flies are as big as hummingbirds! Our internet connection has been too slow for two days to upload any photos to the blog...I'll make up for that once we hit Savannah!
In the meantime I can honestly say that living in a small space, with the sky as my ceiling and the waves lulling me to sleep at night is something I could get used to....ok, I'm going to Hide, now you're it!
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Monday, May 28, 2007
A Feeling Beyond Words
We woke early and left as the sun peaked through the clouds. Cruising past the papermills on the northwest side of Amelia Island, the air smelled like the inside of a cardboard box. The shrimpers hadn't even left their docks yet when we went by. With Fort Clinch behind us, we were finally out of Florida! By 10:30 AM we were at our first stop, Cumberland Island. Since there is no docking allowed we anchored out and took the dinghy in. We were not ready for what we were about to experience. This writer's supply of adjectives doesn't even begin to express the majesty of the maritime forests; live oak trees laden with Spanish moss and sunlight streaming through...endless expanses of salt marsh flats dotted with white egrets...feral horses left behind by conquistadors grazing in grass fields near abandoned artesian wells...wild turkeys...blue heron...butterflies...osprey soaring overhead...nesting sea turtles. To be there, to witness such beauty...we were filled with so much gratitude and A feeling beyond words.
The history of Cumberland Island is interesting. Originally occupied by Timucuan Indians, the Spanish established a mission here. James Oglethorpe built a small fort on the southern tip. We visited an old cemetary where Robert E. Lee's father, "Light-Horse Harry" Lee was buried. He was a friend of General Nathaneal Greene, one of the first to own land and build a home on this island. The home was named Dungeness and it was destroyed during the "War Of Northern Aggression". It still lays in ruins, yet, if you close your eyes you can imagine the parties, the music & the elegance of that time. In 1882 milionaire Thomas Carnegie purchased the island and rebuilt Dungeness. For almost 50 years the Carnegies maintained a vacation home on the island and even some of their children built "cottages", among them Greyfield Inn, one of the most exclusive and romantic places to stay on earth!
Yes, this island is magical. I am so glad we decided to go a bit off course. Anyone who cruises by and doesn't stop has missed a priceless experience, the best of what life has to offer...a place to experience an abundance of nature, a little bit of history...and a feeling beyond words.
The history of Cumberland Island is interesting. Originally occupied by Timucuan Indians, the Spanish established a mission here. James Oglethorpe built a small fort on the southern tip. We visited an old cemetary where Robert E. Lee's father, "Light-Horse Harry" Lee was buried. He was a friend of General Nathaneal Greene, one of the first to own land and build a home on this island. The home was named Dungeness and it was destroyed during the "War Of Northern Aggression". It still lays in ruins, yet, if you close your eyes you can imagine the parties, the music & the elegance of that time. In 1882 milionaire Thomas Carnegie purchased the island and rebuilt Dungeness. For almost 50 years the Carnegies maintained a vacation home on the island and even some of their children built "cottages", among them Greyfield Inn, one of the most exclusive and romantic places to stay on earth!
Yes, this island is magical. I am so glad we decided to go a bit off course. Anyone who cruises by and doesn't stop has missed a priceless experience, the best of what life has to offer...a place to experience an abundance of nature, a little bit of history...and a feeling beyond words.
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Fun in Fernandina
We arrived in Fernandina on Friday afternoon. We are staying at The Amelia Island Yacht Basin...very friendly, we recommend it. They even have a courtesy van...no charge, take the keys and go...so we did...to Publix to restock and of course, Chip was drawn into the local West Marine store.
Fernandina Beach is a sweet little village at the north end of Amelia Island. It has the distinction of being the "northern most city in Florida" as well as the oldest "platted" Spanish city in Florida. There once was a rail road that connected Fernandina to Cedar Key on the west coast. There seems to be a bit of a competition between Fernandina Beach & St Augustine for who has the oldest this or the first that... (St Augustine is winning.)
From where our boat is docked we can look out across the river to Cumberland Island which is in Georgia. The Carnegies had a beautiful home there which is an inn today. I believe JFK Jr. was married there. To this day there are wild horses roaming the island left behind by the Spanish. You can only get there by private boat or ferry. We may "dink" over there tomorrow on our way to Jekyll Island. Everything depends on tides, winds and weather...You can learn more about it on www.greyfieldinn.com
We spent all day yesterday being tourists...went on the trolley tour (Polly the Trolley) and learned all about the history of the island...had a libation at the Palace Saloon, the "oldest saloon" in the states...the downtown area encompases about 50 blocks of Victorian Homes of which many have been converted into Bed & Breakfasts. The Riverfront is alive with fishermen & shrimpers and boats of all sizes. Very picturesque harbor. We had dinner last night at The Down Under, the best fried shrimp I've ever had in my life. (Everytime we go out to eat I order shrimp). Today we ran the dinghy out and went fishing...didn't catch a thing but some rays. Getting a little laundry done, cooking on board tonight...got to see all our "babies" via their new webcams...I am a tan, happy and well shrimped Mimi.
Fernandina Beach is a sweet little village at the north end of Amelia Island. It has the distinction of being the "northern most city in Florida" as well as the oldest "platted" Spanish city in Florida. There once was a rail road that connected Fernandina to Cedar Key on the west coast. There seems to be a bit of a competition between Fernandina Beach & St Augustine for who has the oldest this or the first that... (St Augustine is winning.)
From where our boat is docked we can look out across the river to Cumberland Island which is in Georgia. The Carnegies had a beautiful home there which is an inn today. I believe JFK Jr. was married there. To this day there are wild horses roaming the island left behind by the Spanish. You can only get there by private boat or ferry. We may "dink" over there tomorrow on our way to Jekyll Island. Everything depends on tides, winds and weather...You can learn more about it on www.greyfieldinn.com
We spent all day yesterday being tourists...went on the trolley tour (Polly the Trolley) and learned all about the history of the island...had a libation at the Palace Saloon, the "oldest saloon" in the states...the downtown area encompases about 50 blocks of Victorian Homes of which many have been converted into Bed & Breakfasts. The Riverfront is alive with fishermen & shrimpers and boats of all sizes. Very picturesque harbor. We had dinner last night at The Down Under, the best fried shrimp I've ever had in my life. (Everytime we go out to eat I order shrimp). Today we ran the dinghy out and went fishing...didn't catch a thing but some rays. Getting a little laundry done, cooking on board tonight...got to see all our "babies" via their new webcams...I am a tan, happy and well shrimped Mimi.
Friday, May 25, 2007
Simplicity
We didn't even leave the boat in Daytona on Tuesday night...cooked on board and read up on the next few stops of our journey. Decided on where to stay in Fernandina Beach, Jekyll Island and Savannah. I'm into another book...I am reading my 3rd since leaving Naples: The Secret Keeper's Daughter, Mrs. Miracle and now, The Shipping News...
Thought it might be interesting to share a typical day with you...
The alarm goes off at 5 AM (usually I hit the snooze at least once). Chip is first up and hits the coffee pot (pre-made the night before) and turns on the computer. While he checks the oil, tides, weather, etc...I am now up checking charts and navigation for the day. Both dressed (we never think about what to wear), bed made, breakfast over, dishes done, office email checked and answered, check radios, disconnect from dock electric, start engines, ready, set...MP is the line tender...all fenders in...go! Chip does 99% of the driving...we share the radio task 50/50 (I like talking on the radio)...He keeps the outside clean, I keep the inside clean (including laundry in our very own washer/dryer under the steps...it takes 3 hours to do a normal load start to finish) no kidding! We eat dinner on board every other night or so, but always breakfast and lunch...I'm a little sick of granola bars & peanutbutter sandwiches at the moment. We've got a rhythm going when it comes to pulling into port at the end of the day, too...I radio ahead and get dock info then get all the lines and fenders ready depending on port or starboard docking...Chip is becoming masterful at docking in the wind with currents...Once we are secure we hook up to power, adjust lines, hose the salt off Ithaka...check emails from work...have a beer...Things vary day to day, but mostly we are happy and relaxed. Today we saw hawks, pink spoonbills, manatees, rays, marshlands, shell mounds and so much more. Adjusting to life on a 40' trawler. Simplicity.
Arrived in St Augustine Wednesday late...long day...still no electronics.
Spent all day Thursday being tourists. Went on the trolly tour. Saw the "Oldest House" & the "Oldest School". Went to the site of the first Catholic Mass in the new world: Nombre de Dios; America's First Mission. Retraced the steps of those who walked here over 400 years ago. We took the self guided tour of Castillo de San Marcos. Chip and I are both history nuts, so this was a really good day! Went to the A1A brewery and I had a Summer Wheat Ale. Dinner last night at O.C.'s was great and cheap with a wonderful guitar player who was lost in the 70's! Loved it! We will come back to St Augustine again someday by car...have to drive over the Lion's Bridge once it is completely renovated!
"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page."
~St. Augustine
Thought it might be interesting to share a typical day with you...
The alarm goes off at 5 AM (usually I hit the snooze at least once). Chip is first up and hits the coffee pot (pre-made the night before) and turns on the computer. While he checks the oil, tides, weather, etc...I am now up checking charts and navigation for the day. Both dressed (we never think about what to wear), bed made, breakfast over, dishes done, office email checked and answered, check radios, disconnect from dock electric, start engines, ready, set...MP is the line tender...all fenders in...go! Chip does 99% of the driving...we share the radio task 50/50 (I like talking on the radio)...He keeps the outside clean, I keep the inside clean (including laundry in our very own washer/dryer under the steps...it takes 3 hours to do a normal load start to finish) no kidding! We eat dinner on board every other night or so, but always breakfast and lunch...I'm a little sick of granola bars & peanutbutter sandwiches at the moment. We've got a rhythm going when it comes to pulling into port at the end of the day, too...I radio ahead and get dock info then get all the lines and fenders ready depending on port or starboard docking...Chip is becoming masterful at docking in the wind with currents...Once we are secure we hook up to power, adjust lines, hose the salt off Ithaka...check emails from work...have a beer...Things vary day to day, but mostly we are happy and relaxed. Today we saw hawks, pink spoonbills, manatees, rays, marshlands, shell mounds and so much more. Adjusting to life on a 40' trawler. Simplicity.
Arrived in St Augustine Wednesday late...long day...still no electronics.
Spent all day Thursday being tourists. Went on the trolly tour. Saw the "Oldest House" & the "Oldest School". Went to the site of the first Catholic Mass in the new world: Nombre de Dios; America's First Mission. Retraced the steps of those who walked here over 400 years ago. We took the self guided tour of Castillo de San Marcos. Chip and I are both history nuts, so this was a really good day! Went to the A1A brewery and I had a Summer Wheat Ale. Dinner last night at O.C.'s was great and cheap with a wonderful guitar player who was lost in the 70's! Loved it! We will come back to St Augustine again someday by car...have to drive over the Lion's Bridge once it is completely renovated!
"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page."
~St. Augustine
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Casting Bread upon the Waters
We didn't leave Titusville until after 10:30AM, but still got to Daytona before 4PM. The currents and winds were with us most of the day.
We still don't have our electronics so Chip relied on Michele's ability to read a chart and direct the course as well as using several reference books including "Great Circle Navigation Notes" by Captain Alan Lloyd, "Anchorages Along The Intercoastal" by Skipper Bob and "A Planning and Crusing Guide to the Great Circle Cruise" by G. Bickley Rimmey. This journey brings to mind a line from a poem by Maya Angelou, "When we cast our bread upon the waters, we can presume that someone downstream whose face we may never see will benefit from our actions, even as we enjoy the gifts sent to us from a donor upstream". And so we say, thank you to Skipper Bob, Captain Alan and G. Bickley...and may we now cast some bread as well?
First, if we had known ahead of time how absolutely amazing the anchorage was at ICW mile 842.2, Rockhouse Creek, we would have planned to stay there, on the hook, through the night...probably dinghy'd over to the beach to see the lighthouse at Ponce Inlet...it was gorgeous there! Second, although this is just a "crumb" in the grand scheme, one of the most important items on board today was a fly swatter...trust me, Mosquito Lagoon was aptly named. Third, take the alternate route in Sheephead Cut after the Harris Saxon Bridge, mile 847 (better draft, ICW has bad shoals between 34-39)...and lastly, take a moment when you depart Haulover Canal, mile 870, to look back over your right shoulder as you make the turn at marker "45" to take in the wonder of the space shuttle launch pad and the NASA building in the distance. Say a prayer and believe with all your heart that anything is possible. Doing the Circle Trip is a big deal for us, but men walked on the moon almost 40 years ago! Talk about "casting bread".
We still don't have our electronics so Chip relied on Michele's ability to read a chart and direct the course as well as using several reference books including "Great Circle Navigation Notes" by Captain Alan Lloyd, "Anchorages Along The Intercoastal" by Skipper Bob and "A Planning and Crusing Guide to the Great Circle Cruise" by G. Bickley Rimmey. This journey brings to mind a line from a poem by Maya Angelou, "When we cast our bread upon the waters, we can presume that someone downstream whose face we may never see will benefit from our actions, even as we enjoy the gifts sent to us from a donor upstream". And so we say, thank you to Skipper Bob, Captain Alan and G. Bickley...and may we now cast some bread as well?
First, if we had known ahead of time how absolutely amazing the anchorage was at ICW mile 842.2, Rockhouse Creek, we would have planned to stay there, on the hook, through the night...probably dinghy'd over to the beach to see the lighthouse at Ponce Inlet...it was gorgeous there! Second, although this is just a "crumb" in the grand scheme, one of the most important items on board today was a fly swatter...trust me, Mosquito Lagoon was aptly named. Third, take the alternate route in Sheephead Cut after the Harris Saxon Bridge, mile 847 (better draft, ICW has bad shoals between 34-39)...and lastly, take a moment when you depart Haulover Canal, mile 870, to look back over your right shoulder as you make the turn at marker "45" to take in the wonder of the space shuttle launch pad and the NASA building in the distance. Say a prayer and believe with all your heart that anything is possible. Doing the Circle Trip is a big deal for us, but men walked on the moon almost 40 years ago! Talk about "casting bread".
Monday, May 21, 2007
Dolphins and Sea Cows and Osprey, oh my!
Today was a day ripped from the pages of the book called, "One Of The Best Days Of My Life".
We were blessed to touch; not just one moment, but many, that so few ever get to experience...and we are grateful.
I believe a picture is worth 1000 words so I will leave the photos of the dolphins and manatees to you and your imagination...each of these, God's beautiful creatures, were close enough to touch. They looked at me...eye contact with an animal spirit...it was blissful.
We were blessed to touch; not just one moment, but many, that so few ever get to experience...and we are grateful.
I believe a picture is worth 1000 words so I will leave the photos of the dolphins and manatees to you and your imagination...each of these, God's beautiful creatures, were close enough to touch. They looked at me...eye contact with an animal spirit...it was blissful.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
And on the 7th day they rested
After a very busy week, we decided to stay put at the Ft. Pierce City Marina (very nice) for two nights. Once docked yesterday, we walked into the little downtown area which encompasses about 6 square blocks. Quaint and sweet, you can tell the locals are doing their best to revitalize the area. Although it was only 5 o'clock, most of the stores were closed save one t-shirt shop. The gal who worked there told us about the historic theatre (built in the 1920's) around the corner and said it had been recently refurbished and they were doing their best to get some good entertainment. We walked over and found the featured artist last night to be Mary Wilson (yes, from The Supremes) and The Funk Brothers. Oh my gosh! We got front row-center! No kidding! The back up vocalists were amazing! I got a pink rose (mainly due to my seat, I'm sure). It was a wonderful show...We did not realize how many number one Motown hits the Funk brothers accompanied. OK, I'm beginning to enjoy spontaneity!
Took a cab to church this morning...a heavenly message about "closing your eyes to feel awake" and finding the divine connection between your heart and head...(I thought of it as two waypoints...trusting your instruments even if you cannot "see" what is ahead)...needing both head and heart to find your way...
Spent the day catching up with laundry and house keeping. Tonight we will cook on board again and get a good night's sleep as tomorrow will be an early start and we are hoping to get all the way to Titusville.
Took a cab to church this morning...a heavenly message about "closing your eyes to feel awake" and finding the divine connection between your heart and head...(I thought of it as two waypoints...trusting your instruments even if you cannot "see" what is ahead)...needing both head and heart to find your way...
Spent the day catching up with laundry and house keeping. Tonight we will cook on board again and get a good night's sleep as tomorrow will be an early start and we are hoping to get all the way to Titusville.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
More Discoveries
We spent last night in Palm Beach at their city docks, right at the end of Worth Avenue. Yes, world famous Worth Avenue! Imagine, all the wonderful restaurants, clubs and shoppes at our "doorstep", and what did we do? I made pasta for dinner, we opened a bottle of vino then we turned in early and watched "Cinema Paradiso".
Chip had never seen it before.
I cry every time I see it.
This journey is mostly internal; not just the amazing things we will see all around us, but what we will discover about ourselves.
Today we headed up the ICW past our first lighthouse of the trip in Jupiter...decided to pull in at Ft. Pierce city marina. It was a very rough day...choppy waters and a few rain storms. I got the best video of a half dozen dolphins who danced for us for at least 20 minutes in our wake coming through Indian River just north of St. Lucie inlet. We may stay here a couple of days. They have a Unity church. It's a very nice marina. We are walking distance to the old town and lots of good restaurants and pubs with live music. Captain Chip needs a day off.
Chip had never seen it before.
I cry every time I see it.
This journey is mostly internal; not just the amazing things we will see all around us, but what we will discover about ourselves.
Today we headed up the ICW past our first lighthouse of the trip in Jupiter...decided to pull in at Ft. Pierce city marina. It was a very rough day...choppy waters and a few rain storms. I got the best video of a half dozen dolphins who danced for us for at least 20 minutes in our wake coming through Indian River just north of St. Lucie inlet. We may stay here a couple of days. They have a Unity church. It's a very nice marina. We are walking distance to the old town and lots of good restaurants and pubs with live music. Captain Chip needs a day off.
Friday, May 18, 2007
Happy Friday
We spent the night in Miami. Had a crazy experience docking in 8-9 knot currents with the wind against us. Captain Chip at the helm, I handled all the lines and fenders myself, jumped onto the dock and pulled us into a narrow slip. I know Chip was very proud of me. I can safely say, there will be no manicures on this trip! ha ha
Now we are off to Pompano and North Palm Beach...
Left at first light. The ICW is beautiful. Lovely old homes on either side.
This is Paradise.
Now we are off to Pompano and North Palm Beach...
Left at first light. The ICW is beautiful. Lovely old homes on either side.
This is Paradise.
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
We're in the ICW
We left Marathon at 7:30 AM, slipped under the 7 mile bridge and began our trek up the intercoastal waterway at mile marker 1190 [Norfolk, Va. is marker zero-from there the numbers of the mile markers start going up again].
Captain Chip and I are spending the night in Key Largo...the "first Florida Key"...at Gilbert's Holiday Resort (trust me, this is NOT a resort)...very fishy, run down and key-esque...it's PERFECT! We bought some bait and we will fish at sunset right off the back of the boat.
There were 6 dolphins that put on quite a show for us coming through Grouper Creek..I got it on tape.
Green and Blue have never been this beautiful.
Still no TV reception...I'm missing Idol.
Captain Chip and I are spending the night in Key Largo...the "first Florida Key"...at Gilbert's Holiday Resort (trust me, this is NOT a resort)...very fishy, run down and key-esque...it's PERFECT! We bought some bait and we will fish at sunset right off the back of the boat.
There were 6 dolphins that put on quite a show for us coming through Grouper Creek..I got it on tape.
Green and Blue have never been this beautiful.
Still no TV reception...I'm missing Idol.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Day One
Rough start...rolling seas, 5'-7' with waves cresting and lots of spray. Two rain squalls, but made it to the Seven Mile Bridge in Marathon in about 10 hours (94 miles). We may have seen the worst day of the trip on Day One. I find it interesting, perhaps ironic, that the first "run" on this voyage is to a town named Marathon...Now we're docked at a nice marina and will have another early start in the morning!
Monday, May 14, 2007
Messages from Spirit
Each Sunday at church we select, what I like to call "fortune cookies from God", typed messages on small pieces of folded, colored paper from a basket; affirmations for the week. Yesterday, Chip and I received the following messages...Chip's: "God's love illumines my way and new avenues are opening up to me." Mine read, "Relaxation is not inaction. It is perfect poise in Spirit that enables one to crest the waves of life composed, serene, joyous and unafraid."
We were supposed to leave Naples this morning to begin the first day of our trip. Instead, we are docked at The Olde Naples Seaport, awaiting the foul weather in the upper keys to pass. The first day's journey is 94 miles...approximately 10-11 hours with no other possible stops in between. My captain is a cautious man.
Lesson one, learned last week: Accept change.
Lesson two...Patience.
We were supposed to leave Naples this morning to begin the first day of our trip. Instead, we are docked at The Olde Naples Seaport, awaiting the foul weather in the upper keys to pass. The first day's journey is 94 miles...approximately 10-11 hours with no other possible stops in between. My captain is a cautious man.
Lesson one, learned last week: Accept change.
Lesson two...Patience.
Tuesday, May 8, 2007
Less than a week!
"Six more sleeps" as Gil would say, and we'll be leaving our dock...The first of probably many changes in course occured yesterday when we found out that, due to the lack of rain in the interior of the state, Lake Okeechobee is too low for safe passage. Now, for those of you who know me well, a change in course is not something that is easy for me. I like things scheduled and planned and organized. But, I believe this is the perfect metaphor for discovering Ithaka. God is whispering to me, "Enjoy the journey Michele". I better listen, because this is not a lesson I want to relearn over and over! Chip and I will be spending the first few days of our trip cruising through the keys instead of Clewiston and Moore Haven...it didn't take me long to realize, the 2 or 3 extra days it will take to get to the same point on the east coast of Florida will be spent in much prettier water...plus, no locks! Change will happen along this trip...the variables are endless...I need to just relax and roll with it and enjoy the ride. Lesson learned.
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