Past times and Pastime

We kept very busy here in the Little Falls area. First on our list of must see places was The National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum. We rented a car and took a very scenic drive through the lovely farmlands which are cradled in the rolling foothills of the surrounding mountains...to the lovely little village of Cooperstown. It was induction weekend, so the whole town was buzzing...kids of all ages, wearing t-shirts of every major league team, crowded the streets of the charming main street-This was a dream come true for me...seeing the shrine to this sport's greatest players...many of whom I grew up worshipping because of the love of the game instilled in me by my father. "My" Yankees dominated the the tributes and their fans outnumbered the rest...We got to see Yogi Berra who was in town for the celebration, signing autographs...I was a kid again and it was great! On our way back to Ithaka we took a "deek" and found Hyde Hall...If you're interested more about this place can be found online at: http://www.hydehall.org/ The towns in this area are quaint and the lake is pristine.

On Friday and Saturday we visited some of the legendary places where great events and quiet heroes shaped the course of American History. Nearly 300 battles were fought during the Revolution to secure America's independence...almost 100 of them on New York soil. We went to Fort Stanwix, the site of the Battle of Oriskany, The Herkimer Home and the Erie Canal Village.

It was England's mission to separate New England from the southern colonies by capturing the strategic Mohawk and Hudson waterways...The siege at Fort Stanwix and the battle of Oriskany directly contributed to the great victory at Saratoga...and now we can say that we were here.

Visiting these places...actually seeing where these events took place...seeing where the Oneida Carrying Place was before the Erie canal connected the Mohawk River and Lake Oneida...understanding that this was the frontier at one time...the bravery of the Patriots and their families...many were German and Dutch immigrants...becoming more aware of the important role the Indians played in winning these decisive battles...re-learning the place in history filled by the French...the Loyalists...getting that feeling under your skin of what it must have been like to fight for what they believed in...This area is a rich cup running over with history...a valley of hallowed places...from Gehrig to Herkimer...great men are revered here and we are blessed to learn of their lives.

Lock E-17

Lock 17 requires westbound vessels to tie up on the south wall. This is the largest single step in the Erie Canal, over 40'. There are no pipes or cables so Chip & I had to hold the ropes bow and stern to keep Ithaka steady. We locked through with one other boat. It was a very impressive lock, we felt so small sitting up against the wall. I thought I'd add several "inside the Lock" photos on this post to give you the feeling...Another very interesting thing about this lock is the east gate is pulled up allowing boats to go under it...I got a little wet as we passed under it. It is one of only 2 locks in North America where the entrance gate is lifted! Now we are in Little Falls where we plan to stay a few days. "Life is good"

Learning the Ropes...Cables and Pipes

We had a great time yesterday! It rained most of the day and by the time we got to Amsterdam we were soaked to the bone and ready for a hot cup of soup and a hot shower. But, learning the locks was a lot of fun and much easier than I thought it would be. Once inside the lock we had to decide on either a port or starboard tie. We are ready on both sides at all times, but usually stuck to the right side in case another boat was waiting on the other side for entry. This also allows for better access for Chip to assist with the lines. He drove from the main salon rather than the flybridge all day...mainly due to the weather, but also to back me up in the locks! I developed my own style in the very first lock, which had pipes (similar to cables) as opposed to ropes. With cables and pipes you slip your mid-ship line around it, snug it up tight to the cleat onboard and help it move up the pipe or cable as the water comes into the lock while using the boat hook to keep the bow off the wall & the boat straight. Rather than try to get the entire line around the pipe at once I just put the bitter end through and then quickly pulled the rest of the line around. Easy. When there were no pipes or cables, only ropes, I would get the first line and pass it back to Chip with the boat hook so that he didn't have to leave the helm until I reached out and got the rope I was to hold at the bow. Chip would then walk his rope to the stern to keep Ithaka steady. Might be where the expression "learning the ropes" came from?

I thought Chip was completely going "overboard" (no pun intended) with all his "hull huggers"...No one else had their boat so loaded up with fenders and additional protection, but now that we have spent two days locking through I can honestly say, Chip did a wonderful job preparing Ithaka for her trip up the Erie. Those locks are slimy...and Ithaka is none the worse for the wear after 13 locks.

Amsterdam was just a place to spend the night...we didn't do any exploring. But, today we docked after Lock 12 and took the dinghy over to Schoharie Crossing. What's left is 6 of the 14 original arches in the aqueduct which was built over the Schoharie Creek in 1825. It was 600' long when it was completed and you can still see clearly where the water went through and where the mules walked above on the tow paths. This entire area has enormous historical significance. Whether one travels by car, train or boat you follow routes echoing names, places and events that nourished our heritage.

Tonight we are in Canajoharie...another little village along the canal that time seemed to forget. As we walked through the streets we realize that the citizens are doing their best to rekindle the fire that once burned in the soul of this town by creating art galleries and music in the park and renovating the beautiful structures...a few antique stores and gift shops fill the mostly empty storefronts on the main street. Just a side note; Beech-Nut foods started here in 1891 and the granddaughter of the founder gave over $8 million for a library and museum.

Old Trails, Old Cars and Oldies

We have really enjoyed the past few days here in the little Village of Waterford- It rained on and off for the first two days we were here, but we didn't let that dampen our spirits...We rode our bikes everywhere! Sometimes between the raindrops, sometimes taking shelter under a lock bridge or thick tree canopy. We rode for miles along the tow path of the old Champlain Trail...evidence of the original locks and spillways (see photo), although overgrown, were still visible. Most of the time we were the only ones on the paths for miles and miles on end-It was cool and moist and the air was fresh and smelled like wet leaves; the colors of green were extreme.

We went to the Waterford Historical Museum and saw a hands on reproduction of the first lock, E-2 from 1825. It was a very interesting museum housed in an old white Greek revival mansion along the Mohawk River. The exhibits retraced the footsteps of the people who have lived in this area back to the Indians who knew the convergence of the two rivers was a fertile place and strategically important in defending the area as well. We went over to Peeples Island and spent some time at the visitor's center. It is a state park...a 191 acre oasis where folks were enjoying picnicking, canoeing and hiking. We had a spectacular view from the one-car bridge coming back into Waterford of the city dock and Ithaka.

We also went to a wonderful antique car show...over 100 cars! On Sunday, after a very nice service at St. Mary's we went to the All Paul Show at Riverside Park (a very good Paul McCartney impersonator)...This little village rocks! It was fun singing along to all the old Beetles and Wings song! We went to the grocery store by dinghy-Yup! The Price Chopper in Troy had docks "for people who like to eat and boat", read the sign! It's been a very restful and fun few days...a lot pretty sunsets...a lot of really nice people!

Now we head up the Waterford Flight, a set of 5 lift locks that will raise us up nearly 170' into the Mohawk River Valley...the Flight is the highest incline in the shortest distance of any lock system in the world. The adventure continues!

Unlocking the legends

When you're lock rookies like us, it's best to make your way through the Federal Lock in Troy in bad weather...Not a lot of boat traffic (just kidding).

Truth is, it was a very satisfying moment as we made our way through, soaked to the bone, smiling from ear to ear...it wasn't as tough as people said it would be and I am totally looking forward to this leg of our adventure! (click on inset photo to read sign)

We bid farewell to Catskill, cruised under the Rip Van Winkle bridge, past the Athens-Hudson lighthouse, past sleepy towns and lovely homes along the way, past the state capital - Albany; onward to the single most important reason why New York IS the Empire State, The Erie Canal! The most successful engineering marvel of the 19th century, it was built between 1817 & 1825, is 363 miles long and connects the Great Lakes to the Atlantic Seaboard. When governer DeWitt Clinton proposed the idea of connecting the waterways he was scoffed by his opponents...but, he was vindicated when opening the canal opened commerce, encouraged national unity, created economic power and sealed the deal making New York City the nation's prime seaport and the seat of world trade! for more info log onto: http://www.epodunk.com/routes/erie-canal/index.html

Today we are in Waterford...the dockmasters are the friendliest we've met along our journey. We snugged in overnight at the pump-out station because there wasn't any other "room at the inn". By 6 AM we heard an engine start up so I jumped off the boat and waited down the dock while Chip turned Ithaka around and pulled into the best spot on the city's free floating docks!

A neat little side story: When we were in Savannah last month, returning to the boat the night before we left, there was a note left on Ithaka's door (someone had recognized us as "loopers" because of our burgee). We never met, but we've been emailing back and forth ever since..."Did you catch up yet"? Imagine our surprise when we pulled into Waterford and saw what we thought was their boat! Chip yelled over, "Are you James and Rennie?" and they said, "Yes" and Chip said, "hi, we're Ithaka"! We haven't met many other loopers along the way, so it's always fun to hook up with another crazy couple and share stories...We went down to their boat, The Arundel, and had a beer and I'm sure we'll see more of them along the canal.

We'll be staying here a few days (the slip rent is the right price) and begin our exploration of this fascinating area as we begin to "unlock" the legends of the Erie Canal.

The Artist's Trail

We took a vote and it was unanimous...we will stay in Catskill till Wednesday! Aside from the obvious (we're right over the bridge from Frank and Denise)...we just love this little town! Everything we need is within walking distance from the boat...a small grocery, the post office, an ice cram shop, plus the marina is great: clean, nice staff, a swimming pool and an amazing view from the stern of Ithaka...deer show up at sunset to drink from the creek right across from our boat. (see photo)

On Saturday we took the dinghy to the local Farmer's Market where music played and artisans displayed their crafts. We bought delicious fresh blueberries for our Sunday morning pancakes as well as sweet corn and tomatoes...I wanted everything in sight! Once a month Catskill has a "Saturday night Stroll on Main Street"...all the shoppes, galleries and restaurants stay open till nine. On one corner a young man played the cello...the whole town is buzzing (or should I say purring) with their Cats on display. We were glad to be here for the stroll. We ate amazing burgers at Belle's Cafe. Sunday was a lazy day...we did a little house-keeping then I read a book while getting some sun, Chip wrote in his journal, we went for a swim then went to Frank and Denise's for dinner...Missy and the girls were there. Frank offered us his truck which we happily accepted...

On Monday we took a drive in the country....we did the Greene County "loop". I wanted to find some of the places where the Hudson River School artists painted...we went to Palenville, town of the very first artist's colony in America. Then we followed the map to Kaaterskill Clove to see the ancient arch of the distant green mountains depicted so often in the paintings I love...Bastion Falls (visible right from the road) Haines Falls, North-South Lake and the Catskill Forest Preserve where many found their inspiration....Sunset Rock...the trees and serenity of South Lake...Inspiration Point...Palenville Overlook. Just think of their determination so many years ago to seek out these hidden places. For the best view of the Hudson River valley we took a short hike up a rugged path to the ledge of a 3000' escarpment where the Catskill Mountain House once stood. In its heyday between 1850's-1870's it catered to 400 guests a night. From this place you can see 5 states...the clouds were magnificent and although we were only 12 miles inland the Hudson River looked like a thin, blue satin ribbon in the distance...the colorful patchwork of the farms added to the beauty (to enlarge, click on inset photo). for more info log onto: http://www.hudsonvalleyruins.org/yasinsac/catskill/catskill.html

We are feeling extremely blessed for the experiences we have shared here in this extraordinary place. God is good.

Cat'n around Catskill

We are going stay in Catskill for awhile. We are long overdue for some R & R...the physical and mental aspects of this trip were underestimated by both of us...and with my ribs and bruises still pretty tender from my fall I am in need of a respite before heading into the Erie canal and its arduous locks...

It's really nice here. Sweet little village with a Main Street going through a resurgence. The marina we are staying at has a pool and a helpful staff. The view from the back of our boat down the cove is like a Frederick Church painting ...and we are walking distance to downtown.

It couldn't be more purr-fect.

Yesterday we walked into town and went directly to the Chamber of Commerce office and got a walking tour of Main Street along with a list of the 50 Cats which have been painted by local artists and placed along the sidewalks for all to enjoy (kinda' like the Mermaids we saw in Beaufort, S.C.). The Cats are so much fun! It is a Summer long celebration called Cat'n around Catskill. We went back to the Chamber after checking them all out twice and voted for our favorites (a few of which are highlighted on this post).

We also walked up to the home and studio of Thomas Cole, founder of the Hudson River School of Art and father of American landscape painting. The art movement that he launched had a major influence on America's understanding of its natural environment. It was really neat being in a master's studio and examining the light...unfortunately, they would not allow me to take any photographs inside either the studio or his home.

Two of his finest students were Frederick Church, whose home, Olana (we visited a few years ago...the last time we were here in the Hudson River valley) is just across the river from Cole's home (Cedar Grove). I tried to photograph it from our boat (see picture)....and Asher Durand, whose work, Intimate Observations, is being exhibited at the Cole home through October. His paintings of trees are some of my favorites...

It is no wonder why so many artists have been inspired by this lovely place...why, I may even get my paints out today and see what unfolds.

History on the Hudson

We've had a fabulous time in the Hudson River valley...Kingston was a great stop; very central to many of the places we wanted to see so we rented a car for a couple of days and found our way around...up one side of the river then down the other. Although we did spend Sunday on a nice, leisurely cruise (imagine how relaxing not having to worry about charts) with Denise & Frank (parents of the groom), Seana (their granddaughter) and Denise's sister Carrie with husband Jim (new boaters).

On Monday we drove to West Point and took the tour of the grounds with a wonderful guide...her son just finished his first year as a cadet and her husband is in Iraq. Her love of our country and pride in its army was obvious. She was a wealth of knowledge...West Point's role in our nation's history dates back to the Revolutionary war- both sides realizing the strategic importance of controlling its position. The Hudson River was the main north to south corridor for all ships. In 1779 Washington even transferred his headquarters there...It is the oldest, continuously active military post in America. The list of graduates is impressive: Eisenhower, MacArthur, Bradley, Patton, Stilwell, Swartzkopf. A visit to the museum on site is also a must. I especially enjoyed the "History of Warfare" gallery. The new cadets who had only arrived last week were marching on the parade ground...we watched them for awhile; these children becoming men and women right before our eyes.

Yesterday we went to see the "gilded" Vanderbilt Estate, the gardens are spectacular...lily ponds and landscaped hills rolling right down to the Hudson. Then right "next door" we went to FDR's home and Presidential library...it was America's first Presidential library-and the only one actually used by a sitting president; he designed it himself. It was an amazing collection of his papers, letters, personal treasures, even his car! A replica of the "secret map room" in the White House basement where evidence found 50+ years later allowed those who put the room together for display using old photographs and documents. In his home, which his mother named Springwood, we were allowed to walk through and actually see the room where Roosevelt was born, the room where he lived as a child...the room where he lived as an adult...the cloak he wore in Yalta and the top hat still in the closet which he wore at each of his 4 inaugurations, the hand-pulled elevator he used to hoist himself to the second floor. We went to the stables...and the rose garden where he and Eleanor are buried...a simple quiet place.

Lunch in Rhinebeck at Beekman Arms, America's oldest Inn, open since 1766! Yes, George Washington slept there.

We then went, on what Chip likes to call, a "Michele Deek"...Opus 40 is an environmental sculpture built in a bluestone quarry by artist Harvey Fite who spent 37 years creating the unusual 6 acre landscape using traditional quarryman's tools...I can't help it, I love finding these secret places that people who live 30 minutes away don't even know about. He single handedly moved stones (some as large as nine tons using ancient Egyptian methods of leverage) all toll there are over 34 thousand tons of bluestone in his sculpture (see inset photo). He died in 1976 while working on his masterpiece. He thought it would take him 40 years to complete. I'm glad we went off the beaten path to find it.

Lucky 7's

We went to a wedding on Saturday...our timing could not have been better. If someone had told us 2 months ago that we would have been pulling into Rondout Creek just in time for Drew and Ronda's wedding we would have doubted their confidence in us, but as luck would have it, we made it! I knew we'd be on time when we got to New York City for the 4th of July fireworks! I'm sure a lot of folks got married on 07-07-07, but we were at the best wedding of all! Drew is my dear friend Denise's son and I have always had a soft spot for him...Andrew is a wonderful young man and he and Ronda make a beautiful couple. They were married at Saint Mark's church in Hudson, it was the young minister's first wedding! I imagine a minister never forgets his first wedding, and this wedding will be unforgettable....the bridesmaids dresses were a lovely shade of orange, the mothers of the bride and groom both wore sage and were given white roses by the respective new children-in-law thanking them for welcoming them into their hearts and their family...at that moment there were few dry eyes in the church. At the reception, when they got up to have their first dance, Ronda came over to me and gave me her bouquet...I was speechless...it is the most beautiful bouquet I've ever seen! She will never know how she endeared herself to me with that sincere and generous gesture. (see photo of flowers on Ithaka's stern).

It was a sweet wedding from start to finish...and although the newlyweds went to Las Vegas for their honeymoon, they will need no luck for a happy life together...they have all the right ingredients for a long and loving marriage. God Bless you Drew and Ronda and thank you for making us such an important part of your special day...and your wedding one of the best experiences of Ithaka's voyage.

Up the River

We left the marina in New York harbor early the morning of the 5th and began our trip up the Hudson River...as the New York Skyline faded behind us we cruised under the George Washington bridge remembering how just a couple of years ago we drove over it and said, "In just a couple of years we'll be cruising under this bridge up the Hudson." Just past the bridge we began to experience the river's magic...the cliffs, known as The Palisades rise up 300 to 500 feet...The Hudson River is actually a fjord created by glaciers, it is deep and dramatic...it has been, at times, described as one of the most beautiful rivers in the world and we were about to understand why.

Past Yonkers, past Dobbs Ferry, past Piermont Pier where over 1 million soldiers were shipped to the Normandy invasion in WWII; past familiar names from my childhood when we drove up to Westchester County and Ulster County to visit family...past Sleepy Hollow and past West Point (where my Dad and I once visited together)...past the ruins of a scottish castle on Pollepol Island...in water deeper than Ithaka has ever had under her hull-170' at one point...past the Appalacian Trail which crosses the river at Bear Mountain bridge...past Sing Sing (which Chip thinks is where the term, "being sent up the river" must have come from)...past Haverstraw Bay and its frolicking sailboats, past FDR's home in Hyde Park...through the Adirondack mountains, past swans swimming in coves...We landed in Kingston on July 6th about halfway to Troy where our journey will turn west as we enter the Erie canal...It is no wonder why the Hudson River artists were so inspired by the natural scenery of this river...The towns which once prospered as shipping and manufacturing centers are now going through a rebirth as urbanites make their way with their antique shops and gourmet restaurants to Kingston and Hudson and Catskill...Did you ever wonder why so many towns in this area end in "kill"? The Dutch discovered and settled much of this area and kill means creek or small river in Dutch.

Anyway, we are now happy to be discovering the Hudson River Valley ourselves!

Enter the Golden Door

Just try to imagine the feeling that millions of immigrants felt when arriving in America- After a voyage that sometimes lasted more than a month; in deplorable conditions, clinging only to their meager belongings and their dreams...their hopes greater than their fears- Imagine the emotions as their ships turned into New York Harbor and their eyes beheld Lady Liberty for the first time. They had arrived these courageous souls as the statue greeted the "tired and the poor...huddled masses longing to breathe free..."

When we motored into New York Harbor it was without a doubt one of the most memorable experiences, not only of our journey, but of our lives. Chip, Fern and I sat together up on the fly bridge as we turned into the harbor, a skyline before us unlike any other on earth when we spotted the lady in the distance. How can we possibly know how our ancestors felt...But, we are in awe of their bravery, their faith and their desire to live in America...and her message, "I lift my lamp to the Golden Door" never impressed me more. She led us in as we laughed and cried and celebrated our accomplishment. It was fantastic!

It only made sense that we would spend the next day at Ellis Island. My mom had never been there before. It was a wonderful day for all of us...especially after going through the experience of coming to New York by boat and seeing the Statue of Liberty from that perspective. Afterwards we took the ferry over to Manhattan...went to the World Trade Center Site and Trinity Church. Met my brother Joe for dinner at Katz's Deli...Remember the movie: When Harry Met Sally? "I'll have whatever she's having" is the famous line spoken while they ate Pastrami at Katz's. Yummy!

Ithaka had a special visitor on July 4th...my very dear friend and former art teacher, Fred, spent the afternoon with us...what a treat for me to see him! I love that he brought me a bouquet of flowers picked from his garden. Joey also came over and stayed till after the fireworks (which were incredible) when he and my mom then left together for Brooklyn, leaving Chip and me off on our own again...now we're going to take it real slow up the Hudson...

America's First Seaside Resort

Although the first explorers to test the waters of the New Jersey coastline were the Italians John Cabot and his son Sebastian sailing under the English flag; it was Captain Cornelius Mey who in 1623 led a flotilla of 3 ships for the Dutch West India Company who came to the area and loved it so he named it after himself. Later it was anglicized to May.

Today when one thinks of Cape May they think of Victorian Homes. Due to a fire in 1878 which destroyed nearly the whole town, it was rebuilt over the next 20 years making Cape May a virtual architectural time capsule. We took the Victorian Home tour and were completely enchanted by the turrets and porches and gingerbread trim and colors of these lovely ladies, of which so many are referred. Even on a dreary day the Victorian gardens and color combinations of the shutters and front doors were so bright and cheerful. Because the sun wasn't out the streets were bustling with the first big crowd of the Summer season...the beaches were deserted, but the shops were crowded. We enjoyed our walk along the boardwalk and we strolled up and down the tree-lined streets snapping more photos here than anywhere else we've been so far on our trip!

Yesterday we headed north on the outside waters then made our way through the very tight channel at Barneget Light Inlet along with dozens of other boats into the wide and beautiful Barneget Bay. Hundreds of sailboats maneuvered around us, it was so much fun to watch...The bay is 6-8 feet deep all the way across plus it is very well protected...it's the perfect playground for these wind loving sailors.

Today we are in Tom's River. We picked up Fern at Aunt Dot and Uncle George's home nearby and we all went to dinner together. It was so wonderful for me to see all of George's artwork framed and hung throughout their home. Dot and George have been friends with my parents for over 60 years, which really makes them more like family. I can honestly say that when George gives me a hug I can feel my Dad nearby.

Tomorrow we are off to New York Harbor for what I'm sure will be one of the greatest thrills of this voyage and we are so happy that Mom will be with us to share this experience.