Leg III ~ Part 2 ??

Well, we certainly hit the ground running, as we fully expected. Home since early Thursday morning, we haven't stopped! The time we spent with my mom on Ithaka was great. We traveled from Rogersville Alabama to Columbus Mississippi. Once settled in Columbus we rented a car and took the opportunity to see a few sites. Aberdeen is a quaint little town situated right along the Tenn-Tom Waterway. It's actually where we had planned to stop prior to losing a day to weather, so we decided to drive back up the river to check it out. We stumbled upon a sweet Catholic Church, St. Francis. Of course, mom was thrilled and we never expected it to be unlocked, but it was! We went inside to say some prayers and light a candle. In speaking with the lady who runs the Catholic mission in Aberdeen, that the Catholic population in Mississippi is about 2%. She was also very happy that we took the time to visit their church so she gave us a tour of the hall and rectory. She celebrates the mass there most Sundays because the priest who services the area travels to several small Catholic churches and usually is only there in Aberdeen about once each month. She also told us that they have no young families and no children in their parish family.

We also went to Columbus Mississippi where we were greeted by a very informed volunteer at the welcome center which is housed in the home where Tennessee Williams was born. The main street corners throughout Columbus are beautifully decorated by members of their garden club. Both Aberdeen and Columbus boast well preserved period homes, some of which are Antebellum. We visited the cemetery in both communities, but what really fascinated us about the one in Columbus is the story about the very first Memorial Day. Originally called Decorations Day, it was after the civil war that the wives of both the Union and Confederate soldiers joined together to decorate their husbands graves. This was a true act of unity and friendship, hence the cemetery is called Friendship Cemetery.

Also worth mentioning is the fabulous dinner that we enjoyed in Columbus at a restaurant called J. Broussard's...we highly recommend this one and put it right up on the top of the list of the best 5 restaurants where we've eaten along the loop!

We went to Waverly Plantation (click on photo inset) in West Point Mississippi and hope everyone visiting this area would take the time to find this hidden gem. Built in 1852, it was left vacant for 50 years after the remaining family of Col. Young, who built the home for his wife and 10 children moved out. Then in 1962, the present owner purchased the house from 12 of Col. Young's great grandchildren. He and his wife raised their 4 children there. Today Mr. Snow lives in the home which is filled with wonderful treasures. His wife passed away in 1991. He opens his doors and allows the dozen or so visitors a day to touch a part of the past.

Back home in Naples now and already counting the days till we get back on board Ithaka for the 4th and last leg of this amazing adventure (Chip likes to call it Leg III part 2)...till then remember, "It is not about the destination...it is all about the journey." --We hope you are enjoying yours.

**To view additional pictures of Aberdeen and Columbus please check out our YOUTUBE videos!

Cruising with Fern

Today is a bittersweet day...we're a little bit sad because it is our last cruising day of Leg III of the "Discovering Ithaka" adventure. We are currently docked at Columbus Marina, mile 335 on the Tenn-Tom Waterway. Leaving Ithaka behind one last time while we head back to Naples....don't worry Ithaka, next time you're bringing us all the way home! ~And, it's a happy time, too, because I am counting the minutes to when I get to wrap my arms around my Marvelous Munchkins! I miss my grandbabies most of all...plus all my loved ones of course! But, I cannot forget to mention missing long hot showers (long being the operative word), a king size bed and my waterpik!

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After losing a day to bad weather on Friday, we stepped it up today and continued onto Columbus rather than stopping at Aberdeen as previously planned. The next couple of days will be spent organizing, packing, doing a bit of site seeing and trying to eat what's left in the fridge. Last night we had fun at the Halloween Party hosted by the owners of Midway Marina in Fulton. Then this morning, thanks to "falling back" our clocks gained an hour and we were underway before 6:30 AM. We saw another spectacular sunrise...there was a mist rising on the river with silhouettes of the cypress trees standing along the shore...hundreds of American Coots were swimming in the slough as we departed the marina's entry and headed back into the flow of the Tenn-Tom Waterway. Mom has really enjoyed cruising and many times through-out each day she has said, "this is such a beautiful world." Today, on two occasions, we saw an otter swim across the river, although once it may have been a beaver...a huge bald eagle perched in the tallest tree...countless blue herons, of course the coots at sunrise...we've kept a watchful eye out for deer as we were told we might see them along the banks, but no luck yet...then as we approached the marina, the White Pelicans greeted us in the channel. It may very well have been one of the flocks heading south that we saw when we left Grafton over a month ago.

I'm enjoying posting our videos on YOUTUBE and creating movies with music from our photographs...It's a great way to share since I am a possessed shutterbug! I'm sure I'll add a few more posts on the blog before hanging up my writer's pen for awhile. I know I can speak for my captain when I say what a wonderful time we have had cruising with Fern. She is a joy to be around and an inspiration to everyone who knows her. Thank you mom for being here.

The Fall Rendezvous

We arrived last Thursday night at Joe Wheeler State Park and Marina just in time for 'dock'tails...with this group, it's always 5 o'clock somewhere! --On Friday we got caught up on cleaning and boat work plus made a run to get groceries thanks to the graciousness of another Mainship owner, SeaMoore! Carlton and Becky won't be starting their loop until next October...we told them they bought the perfect boat for looping! Well, 3 loads of laundry later at the Rogersville launderette, then onto a pool party Friday night hosted by the boats from the Florida Keys! A very funny gave of darts, Key West Style, that I will definitely have to remember for the next fun pool party at home...a conch blowing contest...and a 'Pin the label on the Bud girl' competition. Yours truly came in first place, thank you very much, and won a really neat Conch Republic flag! (see picture inset) Of course everyone else was trying to get the label on the boobs or butt...I aimed for the Bud bottle of course...Sheesh, where else would the "LABEL" go?

Our neighbor on the dock, "Bombay Lady" has parents who live on the beach in Naples! We enjoyed meeting them and talking about all the great restaurants we love back home...Imagine being at a state park in Alabama and docking directly next to a boat with close family in Naples? It is a small world!

The Rendezvous started on Sunday--over 200 boaters were registered! The seminars were fabulous...really informative and interesting...the food was great, every meal...and, of course, all the loopers were fun-loving, warm friendly people...some who have already completed their loop, others like us still looping...and quite a few in attendance who don't even own a boat yet, but they have a dream, and that's how we all got started! Speaking of dreams: we bought our charts and cruising guides for the Bahamas...that's next on the bucket list! It really is amazing when you get together with a group like this and realize how few people actually circumnavigate the entire eastern United States in a year...We are so blessed. For a view of the week's activities, please click here to see the videos I posted on YOUTUBE!

Mom arrived on Tuesday...we are so lucky to have her on board. We told here she's the only crew allowed to stay for more than three nights! She loves that we make her feel so special! She's here for the last week of this leg of the trip. We have reservations to fly home from Columbus Mississippi next week...today we are hunkered down at Grand Harbor marina, right at the beginning of The Tenn-Tom Waterway--there's a storm expected to blow through pretty hard so it's a good thing we had a weather day provided for in our cruise plan...

Yesterday's trip through the locks provided us with some excitement...we locked through on the Wheeler Lock with 11 other loopers. A few had to actually raft together because there weren't enough bollards to go around! Then, because of the water levels, our drop in the Wilson Lock was over 90'! It was cold, and pouring down rain, but it was great, and having mom on board made it even more fun!

We have enjoyed the month spent on the Tennessee River; from Kentucky Lake to Chattanooga, it has been one of our most favorite part of the entire loop! ~and, as always, Life is Good on Ithaka!

It's All About the People You Meet

~Along life's path...it truly is all about the people you meet along the way...and The "loop" is no exception to this. Since leaving from our homeport in Naples, we have met and made friendships to last a lifetime...

Speaking of lifetime friendships; when I lived in Galveston Texas, many many moons ago, I met Chino and Yvonne (click on photo). We became fast friends. I sang at their wedding! Over the years we never lost touch...we watched each other's children grow up in photographs sent in with Christmas cards and caught up in person when Yvonne came to Naples occasionally on business. We calculated that it had been nearly 30 years since I last saw Chino and over 19 years since Yvonne and I last saw each other. I don't think we have talked on the phone once in all those years. But, when they arrived here in Joe Wheeler State Park on Saturday (they live close-by near Huntsville) for a visit that we planned almost a year ago, it was like no time had gone by between us...The years melted away and we picked right up where we left off.

...and so, when we read other loopers' boat blogs, and talk to folks out on the docks...when we attend a rendezvous and run into cruisers we haven't seen since the Chesapeake in 2007, or get a call from the ones we maneuvered through the Georgian Bay with in 2008...when loopers reminisce about what was the best part of their journey and always start by saying, "it's all about the people you meet along the way", they couldn't be more right...

One Particular Harbor

"The sons and daughters of trees older than Earth itself---whose veins run into the Mother's veins-

The ancient seed planted before the ice,

Continuously fed by the mist on this river...

and it feels like home

as Mother Earth embraces me."

We woke up this morning and soon realized that today would be our last day of solitude on this leg of the journey...Don't get me wrong, we've met a lot of really nice people...but, our busy calendar back at home is already filling up, and we are not even there yet! We'll be at Joe Wheeler State Park tomorrow; the site of the Looper Rendezvous where we will be reacquainted with folks we've met along the way and also meet lots of new friends, too...

In the meantime, we are at a beautiful anchorage so we decided to stay an extra day...It is one of those places that inspires poetry...that once you've been there you will always remember it without hesitation. Chip and I will look at each other years from now when reminiscing about this adventure and one of us will say, "There was that 'one particular harbor'...", and the other will know, it is here at Goat Island off Lake Guntersville on the Tennessee River.

*(click on link above to see videos and photos of this magical place)

Shrimp and What?

We spent another quiet couple of days on the hook after leaving Chattanooga...We really like Little Cedar Mountain and highly recommend it! (see photo inset). It has gotten very chilly for us "Florida babies" the past few days and I am very grateful for the space heater that Chip bought while he was up visiting Gil! Definitely one of the best purchases on this leg of the trip! Makes the cabin nice and toasty!

We are back at Goose Pond Marina, pulled in late yesterday. We've been hearing all about the restaurant here and their house specialty, so we went out for dinner and I tried the "Shrimp and Grits" (When in Rome)...I must say, that it was wonderful! The Docks Restaurant was lively, the service was tops, and the food was delicious! Save room for the home made desserts!

We went to church this morning with a few of the other folks who are staying at the marina...as it turned out, a Catholic Mass at St. Jude's with a very inspiring priest...We left feeling very blessed. Later today we will be borrowing the courtesy car and making a grocery run...my mom will be joining us in another week or so to spend the last few days of this leg with us before we head back to Naples together for a month of catching up with business, friends, and of course GRANDCHILDREN!

As always, life is good on Ithaka.

A Wonderful Visit

Our trip through the ancient gorge wasn't as dramatic as it could have been had we not spent most of the day dodging rain drops---the clouds hung over the mountain tops while a gentle mist rose like steam...Most of the view was blocked by fog, but something about that fog just added to the magic. There were over a dozen turns in the 30 mile course that is 'nick-named' the Grand Canyon of the Tennessee River...We are just hoping for some sunshine on the return trip down stream...

Mimi & Papa were thrilled to get a call that David, Brandy and Leonardo were on their way to Chattanooga. It's about a 3 1/2 hour drive from their home in Western North Carolina and we had been trying to coordinate this for the past week or so--It's hard to give specific dates when you're trying to meet people because you just never know when you are going to be held up with weather and locks and other things like that which can come up along the way...But, we were docked by 4 PM and they arrived just in time for dinner! We "skyped" Uncle Rock and Leo was soooo excited to SEE his cousins! Afterwards the four of us played Scattergories...It's really pretty funny when a 4 year old is helping the rest of us come up with answers! "Pssst, Leo, can you think of a tool that starts with 'F' ?" ...and he quickly replies, "How about 'File'?" Geez, why didn't I think of that? Anyway, we all slept great, with happy smiles...and Leonardo thought it was really cool that he was the first grandchild ever to sleep on Ithaka!

This morning I made my 'world famous chocolate chip pancakes' then we headed out to the Tennessee Aquarium, which is walking distance from where Ithaka is docked! We had a fantastic day exploring the rivers and oceans...the exhibits were so well done. We saw a 3-D movie which was narrated by Jim Carey--Leonardo got to pet a sting ray, a sturgeon, a rat snake and an opossum! It was a wonderful day which will be a highlight of the trip for us! I think you can tell by the photo inset how happy 'Mimi' is!

It was hard saying good-bye tonight after such a short visit...A Wonderful visit! I have posted video and a photo collage on YOUTUBE!

From Grand Harbor to Chattanooga is about 500 miles round trip...It's what Chip & I call a "deek" (only longer than usual)...We have seen a lot of beautiful sites along the way, but none as beautiful as our grandson's face...The deek was worth it, just for that alone!

What Time Zone Is It Anyway?

We've had a wonderful few days traveling along the rivers and lakes from Florence Alabama back up into Tennessee...We should be in Chattanooga tonight, which I know will keep us busy, so I thought I had better post something. Our reception hasn't been the best, and I don't even know for sure what time zone I'm in at the minute!

Here's a bit of a recap of some of what we have seen and done these past few days...

Late Friday afternoon we heard a loud siren going off...at first thought we suspected there was a fire department nearby...then, the manager of the marina came knocking on our boat and directed us to take cover...Nine of us huddled in the ladies room and waited out the storm until the threat of passing tornadoes ended. That was our excitement for the day!

On Saturday morning we cruised through some beautiful landscape, even tho' it was another dreary day...we made the short run to Joe Wheeler State Park. We confirmed our reservations for later in the month when we make our way back for a one week stay during The Great Circle Route rendezvous...we expect another 40 or so "loopers" will gather for a few days of sharing stories and seminars--more on that later.

We headed out early on Sunday and once again conducted our own 'church service' on board Ithaka--both of us wondered how anyone could ever doubt the existence of the divine as we took in all the peace surrounding us and thanked God for our blessings...Also, on Sunday, we passed the mid-point on the Tennessee River...and we cruised by the Redstone Arsenal and Marshall Flight Center. It was right there that America's Space Program was launched in 1960. Most of the day we cruised through the Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge. We are becoming quite the 'bird watchers' lately. We bought The Audubon Society's Sibley Guide to Birds which we keep right next to the charts. I swear, I think we refer to it almost as often!

In addition to it being Columbus Day, Monday was Canadian Thanksgiving--We had gotten off to a slow start due to the normal Monday morning influx of real estate activity, calls and emails...It was grey throughout the day, rained nearly the entire trip so we stayed in the cabin rather than navigating from the flybridge. It was nice for a change to be able to nest a bit while underway...Chip told me stories about what Thanksgiving was like when he was a kid. He and his Dad would get up really early and go duck hunting. As it turned out, that night we stayed at Goose Pond Marina, which just so happens to be the name of the pond where he and his dad used to hunt together...In fact the Indians in the area later changed the name from Goose Pond to Doc's Pond and we have a photo of it in our cabin in North Carolina! Just as we turned into the embayment the sun started to peep through the clouds....The lily pads were as big as garbage can lids....There were ducks and Canada geese everywhere...It was as if his dad had sent him a message, 'I am here'. It was a lovely spot, and we will definitely stop there again on our way back.

Last night we anchored at mile 426.9, at Little Cedar Mountain. Possible one of the prettiest anchorages on the entire river system...and in my top 5 of all anchorages to date! We have rain again today...I am glad we will be coming back through again after spending a few days in Chattanooga because the beauty is breathtaking, even in the haze. In fact, at times I actually think the clouds rising from the mountains like steam just adds to the mysticism of this area.

As always, life is good on Ithaka...

The Human Spirit

"No pessimist ever discovered the secret of the stars or sailed an uncharted land or opened a new doorway for the human spirit."

~ Helen Keller

We are in a town along the Tennessee River called Florence Alabama. The river has dipped into Alabama and will curve northward back into Tennessee east of here near Chattanooga. There's a lot to see in Florence, so we hopped into the marina's courtesy van with map in hand to do a little exploring.

We found the Rosenbaum House; the only home designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in the entire state. It has been called the purest form of Wright's Usonian design ever built. He also designed much of the interior furnishings. I love the geometrics of his designs and I thought this home in particular was stunning, but I was surprised that it didn't have a view of the river.

We also located the birthplace of W.C Handy, the 'Father of the Blues'...Today, the simple log cabin is a museum and has a large collection of his memorabilia including his piano. As a boy, they say, he used the notes of the bird's songs to create tunes. I was smitten with the metal art sculpture in the yard depicting a blues quartet.

Perhaps one of the most inspiring visits to a home or museum that we've had along the trip was our tour today of the home where America's First Lady of Courage was born. Located on a beautifully landscaped and tree-filled 640 acre tract of land in Tuscumbia, right over the river from Florence, sits Ivy Green, the home where Helen Keller lived. Having survived the Civil War, the home is perfectly maintained right down to the tiniest details including some of her childhood toys and dresses on display. The most moving experience of our visit was to actually see the 'the pump' (click on photo inset) where Helen first understood the correlation between letters, words and things. Her recognition, at 7 years of age, that w-a-t-e-r meant something cool and wet flowing over her hand...It is impossible to even begin to imagine what that moment must have felt like. But, from that moment on her learning never faded...within six months she knew over 600 words...by 10 she mastered braille...by 16 she spoke well enough to attend prep school. She went on to graduate cum laude from Radcliffe College. Her teacher, Anne Sullivan, never left her side and became known as 'The Miracle Worker'. Also the name of a play by William Gibson, and later made into a movie which won Academy Awards for both Patty Duke and Anne Bancroft. I suggest everyone, at the very least, see the movie. There are countless books written about Helen Keller. Her life's story is worth reading about, a story of unmeasurable courage...a true testament to the human spirit.

--Once she wrote, "They took away what should have been my eyes, but I remembered Milton's Paradise. They took away what should have been my ears, Beethoven came and wiped away my tears. They took away what should have been my tongue, but I had talked to God when I was young. He would not let them take away my soul---Possessing that, I still posses the whole."

What more can I say?

Right Place, Right Time

We decided to stay the extra day at Grand Harbor before continuing up the Tennessee River. Going to Chattanooga is a "side trip", and not part of the actual loop.

We had a few very nice things happen to us yesterday. For starters, we were the 'welcoming committee' for Salvage Crew as they passed by the dock at Grand Harbor, just moments after crossing their wake, after nearly 12 months away from their home port...It was very exciting to witness the end of such a memorable journey first hand...Of all the folks they met along the way, how ever did we get to be so lucky to be right at Grand Harbor to share in their joy? We went to dinner with them last night to celebrate. They are retired real estate agents from Birmingham...I am sure our paths will cross again.

Also yesterday, we stopped to chat with a sweet couple docked close by who seemed to have an extraordinary wealth of information about the area--all of a sudden, Chip recognized their boat, Liberty Belle, from the cover of one of their books! Imagine our delight when we realized we were chatting with Fred and Joan Myers! They welcomed us to sit down and proceeded to give us additional tips on marinas and anchorages from Chattanooga to Mobile! Fred has been a professional writer and photographer for about 50 years. Florence Alabama is their home port. He has written all the Cruise Guides that we are using to assist us in navigating the river systems!

We certainly are always finding ourselves in just the right place at just the right time!

Next stop Florence, Alabama!

(Chip took that picture of me piloting Ithaka on our way to Florence through Pickwick Lake).

5000 Miles!

We left Birdsong Marina on Monday morning after 6 days...and no other "looper" boats in sight. It's my guess that most transients pass up Birdsong because of its proximity to Pebble Isle, which is much more "looper friendly". Plus the fact that the trip up Birdsong Creek is a bit windy and off the beaten path. We really had a pretty good stay there...the owner, Bob, actually gave us the keys to his pick up truck and it was ours the entire time...we were just down the road from a Super Walmart and any other convenience...We also drove over to Pebble Isle one night for dinner and it was fabulous...

The highlight of the day for us on Monday was going over 5,000 nautical miles on our trip log (see picture attached) since leaving home in May 2007! That night we anchored behind the larger of two islands named "Double Islands" at mile 148. We grilled steaks for dinner and watched a bald eagle perched on a tree not far from where we sat. We didn't have cell or Internet service, so we turned in early and watched a couple of movies.

On Tuesday we did 67 miles plus a lock...it was a long day and we dodged a bad weather system. By the time we got to Grand Harbor Marina we were ready for hot showers, a glass of wine and a nice dinner...Today we are just sitting tight...catching up on 'snail' mail, paying bills, writing postcards, charting out the next few days, a few boat maintenence and housekeeping items and enjoying the beautiful sunshine. There are 2 other looper boats here and they, too, are going to the rendezvous at Joe Wheeler State Park later in the month...

Life is good on Ithaka.

Place of Peace

Ironically, the word shiloh is Hebrew for "Tranquil".

Chip and I visited Shiloh National Military Park yesterday. Established in 1894, it is considered one of the best preserved battlefields in the nation. During this 2 day battle nearly 24,000 soldiers were either killed, wounded, captured or missing.

The battlefield gets its name from the Church of Shiloh, Place of Peace, which stood not far from where the fighting ensued...
During April 6th and 7th, 1862 Confederate Generals Albert Johnston & P.G.T. Beauregard and Union Generals Ulysses S. Grant and Don Carlos Buell raged a fierce battle. Considered a pivotal battle in the war; the Union armies went on to take Corinth, only 22 miles to the south. Two rail lines converged in Corinth: The Memphis and Charleston Railroad and the Mobile to Ohio Railroad, making it one of the most important rail cities to conquer, second only to Richmond. Taking Shiloh, then Corinth, led Ulysses S. Grant to start his Vicksburg campaign.

While walking out onto the battlefield cannot begin to make clearer the bloodshed that occurred during those two days..nor do I even attempt to understand the bravery of those young soldiers, or what makes someone feel so strongly about a cause that they would risk life and limb. I did however look around me and imagined some of the very trees that stood there now gave shade even then to those brave men...I believe their sacrifices were not in vain as they were part of a war which united a great country...I was humbled by the enormity of it all: the numbers of those who perished...those interred at the cemetery without a name, simply a number on a headstone...the magnificent statues and monuments....the view out over the river...the beauty of the park...it truly is a Place of Peace.

*(click the photos at right to enlarge)

My new best friend...

Shortly after Chip left to drive up to surprise his brother Gil for his birthday, I had an unexpected visitor make her way down the dock and sit herself right outside my door. (click on photo to enlarge picture).
Meet "Birdie"! ~Now, I don't know if that's going to be her name in the end, but that's what I've been calling her for the past 3 days. She's a puppy...I would guess maybe 4 or 5 months old. She's as sweet as maple syrup and has made herself at home here at the marina. No one knows where she came from...and so far, no one is claiming her, but everyone is giving her lots of love and attention...feeding her, rubbing her behind the ears...why she may just end up being The Birdsong Marina mascot by the time we leave...I've already told the manager that they can have t-shirts made, ball caps, visors, koozie cups! Anyway, my new best friend knows I'm by myself...and she comes down to check on me throughout the day.

Being alone has been strange...Chip and I have been away from one another before...but usually it is either me going away or him going away and we are at home: in our house, close to friends and family and all things familiar...Being on Ithaka for three days in a quiet marina in Tennessee without any other transient boats, no other living soul in sight once the sun goes down is quite a different story. In a way it has had a therapeutic effect...almost like a healing...the passage of time alone...connecting with feelings...keeping busy...working, reading, painting, praying...eating when I was hungry and cooking what I like to eat...Being alone on Ithaka last night through a lightning storm was a bit scary...the boat rocked and rolled a lot. The wind whipped around me and the waves sloshed up against the bow right above where my head was trying to rest...this went on for several hours! A storm that, anyone who knows me knows, I would have normally slept right through if my captain had been on board...I never felt frightened except for the passing thought of how lonely my life would be without Chip...I can fill the idle time in many ways. I am never bored.

So, Chip is on his way back to Ithaka now. I know he had a very good visit with his brother...Gil has not been well, and Chip would not let his birthday go by without being there. I knew it wasn't my place to be there...we will have a big celebration together as soon as he is able...It is a long drive, nearly 12 hours so I know he will be tired...dinner is ready (what he likes)...and I can't wait to see my real best friend! (sorry Birdie)...

A "Pearl" of a Tour

"But the pearls were accidents, and the finding of one was luck, a little pat on the back by God..."

~John Steinbeck

The only one of its kind, I went to the Tennessee River Freshwater Pearl Farm and Museum today. Located right here in Birdsong Creek near Camden Tennessee, in an embayment right off Kentucky Lake, tucked in behind the marina, exists the only farm that cultivates freshwater pearls in North America! I enjoyed a brief video which highlighted the pearl farm as it was featured on a nationally broadcast television show and I learned so much about how freshwater pearls are cultured and harvested. The implanting techniques and the variables which create different shapes and colors...It was fascinating. I just couldn't believe it was right here within walking distance of where Ithaka is docked! After being implanted, the mussels used are set into nets which are attached to floating PVC pipes (click on photograph to enlarge). There are literally hundreds of thousands of mussels in the farm, known as a "garden". After leaving the museum I toured the farm on my own. There is a variety of mollusks species used for pearl farming...and very few places on earth that offer the conditions deemed ideal for such an operation....and here I am...Alas, divine appointments are made for me each day.

Morning Mist at Birdsong Creek

The quiet stillness of a sunrise...early bird fishermen dot the landscape...a mystical mist surrounds them...
Hush...no sound. Look...a thousand shades of gray.

How can something so muted make everything seem so clear?

Picturesque Kentucky Lake

What a beautiful afternoon we had yesterday on Kentucky Lake.
The temperature was ideal...the wind was perfect...and there were a lot of sailboats out on the water enjoying the day.
Last night we anchored at mile 60.2 in a little cove named Panther Bay. Tucked in behind a bend in the bay, we were the only boat here! We could anchor every night for a month of Sundays and never pull into the same cove twice...After the sun went down we sat up on the foredeck and watched the stars...even spotted a few satellites moving through the night sky. We would highly recommend this anchorage for all the loopers behind us. We are taking it slower than usual this morning because we decided to only go 19 miles today to stay at another anchorage before our next marina stop...as long as the ice holds out, we are happiest at anchor...
~especially when there's not another living soul in sight!
A video of Panther Bay, along with other short clips of Barkley Canal and Kentucky Lake will be posted on Youtube, too!

A Heavenly Day

It's Sunday...we missed mass again today...

Some days there is just no time for prayer...but, when I stop, on a glorious day like today, and lift up my arms to the sky and say, "Thank you God", I know He hears me because my heart hears him reply, "You are welcome"...and that's when you know, you are communing with God in a place that is holier than any temple or church...Today was a heavenly day.

Herons and Turtles and Ducks, Oh My!

Can you find Ithaka docked at The Green Turtle Bay Marina?

(click on photo to make image bigger)

We've had a wonderful reprieve after the trek down the Mississippi and up the Ohio and Cumberland Rivers...four lover-ly days at
The Green Turtle Bay Marina...I can see why this has become a looper favorite...popular possibly more so because it is strategically located at the end of 350 dismal miles of nothingness...If someone were to ask me now, which of the segments along the loop were the least desirable, I'd probably have to say the journey from Chicago to Lake Barkley...not withstanding the great folks we've met along the way...ah yes, Who could forget Fern at Hoppies smoking her cigarettes just a few feet away from the fuel tanks on her dock...BOOM! and of course, Captain Moe at Heritage Harbor in Grafton and Jan & Joe in Grafton...and, There were some nice anchorages: Upper Henry Island at mile 194.6 and Duck Island at 135.6....mile 61.6 where we anchored at the western most point of the entire loop! Little River Diversion Channel was quiet, except for the fisherman trying to stir up the carp by driving their bass boats in mad circles, trying to show us how they [the carp] actually jump right into their boat from the sound of their motors! (Didn't happen) ..We met a few other loopers and travelled with them on and off along the way...We've spent a few days exploring Lake Barkley in the dinghy, posted on (click) YOUTUBE and used the marina's courtesy van on several occasions to go into 'town' for dinner and re-provisioning as well as driving around parts of the (click for website) 'Land Between the Lakes'...the largest inland peninsula in the eastern United States! All very interesting and had we had our own car we would have visited the planetarium and the Elk & Bison Prairie...

We've caught our breath again...laundry is done, pantry is stocked, and the crew is well rested...we set out tomorrow for a few days of anchoring as we cross over the Barkley Canal from the Cumberland to the Tennessee River and begin our adventure towards Chattanooga...Life is good on Ithaka.

A Little Bit of "Sunshine"

We had a wonderful surprise visit yesterday from the crew of Sunshine! ~ About 10:00 AM yesterday morning the phone rang and Muriel asked where we were...We told her that we had just pulled into The Green Turtle Bay Marina, south of Paducah Kentucky on Lake Barkley the night before...she said, "Well, we'll be in that area on our way to Kansas City around 3 today...Can we stop by for a visit?" STOP BY FOR A VISIT! You've got to be kidding!? Bud later told us that when they were planning the trip they mentioned they would look down while crossing over the Ohio River with the hopes they might see Ithaka cruising by...Never did they actually think the timing would have been so perfect...But, you know us...we do seem to have things fall into place in a rather divine way! It was great to see Bud and Muriel and of course, Chip's 'fishing buddy, Shelly! We reminisced about our time together last summer and we made plans to see each other again while they are down in Florida visiting Jeff and Anne (their son and daughter-in-law) in November when we are home! We called Bill and Eileen (Blue Max) while they were here, too...and we all got very nostalgic.

We got "socked-in here today, but we did have a "little bit of Sunshine" yesterday!
Life is good on Ithaka!

(click on picture to make it bigger)

The Cumberland River

We left our anchorage on the Ohio at 8:00 AM and began the arduous task of continuing upstream, against the 3-4 knot current and on constant watch for logs and deadheads...It rained on and off all day and although, up to this point, the Cumberland River isn't nearly as impressive as the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers, we have seen more eagles than on any other stretch of the rivers...The Barkley Lock and Dam lifted us an impressive 57' and we then entered a beautiful, serene lake on the other side... Today we will spend much of the day organizing, re-grouping, cleaning, doing laundry and shopping. The town that we are near is Grand Rivers, Kentucky...it is at the northern entrance to Land Between the Lakes. I'm sure I'll have more to blog about in a day or two as we intend to set out and explore the area both on bikes and dinghy over the next few days. Don't forget to check out the videos I'm posting on YOUTUBE!

Old Man River

"Mee-zee-see-bee" which means, Father of all Waters
~ Ojibway Tribe

It's interesting to me, but as we turned into the Ohio River today I was struck with the thought that it seemed a more 'feminine' river that the Mississippi...not thinking for a moment about the song, Old Man River, but just noticing the 'softer' shoulders...the gentle way the banks rolled down to the water's edge...then tonight I listened to the song, as sung by Judy Garland, and I knew that 'Old Man River' was Mother Nature's way of wearing the pants...tough and sturdy and dirty and forceful...It was a great 4 days cruising down this magnificent body of water...even in the quiet boredom, mile after empty mile, it was filled with something deeper than words...a lone bald eagle perched on a rock jetty...a breathtaking sunset...it truly is the Father of all Waters...

~and, How could I ever conclude our trip down the Mississippi without mention of one of its more famous steamboat pilots: Mark Twain? Born in Hannibal Missouri as Samuel Clemens in 1835, he took the pen name Mark Twain after the term of measurement. A fathom being 6 feet, and a twain being 2 fathoms...the deck hands would yell out "Mark Twain" to notify the pilots of the depth of the river...his stories have brought the river life to readers around the world...

We are ahead of schedule...not that we actually have a schedule...Originally I thought we'd be on the Cumberland River by month's end, but at this rate we should be there either tomorrow or Wednesday. We aren't supposed to be at the rendezvous in Joe Wheeler State Park until the end of next month...so I would say we're going to have some down time coming up soon....I am looking forward to a little chill time in the Kentucky Lakes...maybe get my paints out...read a few books. After spending 6 of the last 9 nights on the hook, The Green Turtle Marina is going to look good to this weary first mate.

Tonight we are anchored on the Illinois side of the Ohio River in a town called Metropolis, best known as the hometown of Superman...It's a good safe spot, off the path of tug traffic, tucked in under a RR bridge behind a floating Harrah's Casino...

Honor the Sabbath

We missed church today...but spent the day in God's heavenly flow. Days like this can be monotonous...but, it all depends on how you look at it. We cruised 110 miles, taking full advantage of the river's current, and ended up in a creek called Little River Diversion Channel. I like the name...its almost as if the person who named it knew that after a long day on the Mississippi most captains would be ready for a 'little river diversion'. It is very peaceful. We don't even have the generators running...shhhhhhh...

It was raining lightly when we set out at day break...and it gently rained intermittently throughout the day. There weren't many other pleasure vessels on the river...mostly tugs and tows...plus there are not many places to stop on the way to the Kentucky Lakes, which makes it even less desirable for day boaters...We traveled with two other 'loopers' that we met at Hoppies...and I'm glad Fern, and our friends Bill and Eileen, who were here last year, told us about this anchorage.

There weren't any bright colors today...Ah, but the mist was a soft gray...the water muddy brown...the cliffs were touched with burnt umber and deep earthy greens...the sky was as blue as my grandmother's eyes...and God shined his sunbeams between the clouds on and off --we were treated to a light show dancing on the river...These are God's colors...No, we didn't go to church today, but we were in His cathedral all day...and it was wonder-full.

"My country is the world, and my religion is to do good." ~Sir Isaac Newton

Alton to Kimmswick

Here we are at Hoppies "Marina"...if that's what you want to call it--It's 4 or 5 retired barges, rusting out, attached and chained to rocks, floating near a quaint little town called Kimmswick which just so happened to be celebrating its Sesquicentennial today, yes today! (that's 150 years for us mere mortals that don't speak Latin...thank you Chip for telling me how to spell it)...Our perfect timing of showing up at places at exactly the right moment continues! The downtown is a bit surreal...kinda' like Goodland on Steroids. The Stores are all brightly painted and mostly all sell the same sh#@ and knick-knacks, yet we had to go in and out of each and everyone of them in the hopes we'd come across a treasure (which indeed we did...and packages are on their way to our 3 granddaughters as I write)...I highly recommend all loopers coming through to check out 'The Design Haus' on Front Street...possibly one of the cutest shoppes I have ever been in!

--After a two hour wait (check out the videos on YOUTUBE ) we locked through and actually made up the time lost by taking advantage of the 3-4 knot current..Ithaka actually saw double digits for probably the first time ever! I had to put my wind-breaker on!

One of the highlights of the day...heck, one of the highlights of the entire loop, was passing by the arch (click on picture to make it bigger) in St. Louis...The Gateway to the West! (video also on Youtube)

Ending up at Hoppies was not by chance...we've been planning to stop here for years...To meet Fern of course! On the Mississippi she is famous--(happens to be my own mother's name, too!) We attended her 'River Talk' tonight and with her assistance, we are plotted right through to Mobile! Thank you Fern.

It's over 200 miles to the next marina...we are aggressively planning to do 110 miles tomorrow and make it all the way to Little Diversion Channel. This is more remote than the Canadian wilderness!

Sunset on the Mississippi

Taken last night, here at Alton Marina.

Grafton to Alton

Picture #1 is of me at the Grafton Lighthouse.
#2 of of Captain Chip as we entered the great Mississippi River...and,
#3 is me outside The National Great Rivers Museum...how do you like my yellow bike?

Grafton to Alton was a whopping 16 miles--we decided to pit-stop here to take the edge off what could potentially be an otherwise long day from Grafton to Hoppies, just south of St. Louis. Since neither of us has ever navigated on the Muddy Miss before, we didn't know what to expect...As it turned out, the chart plotter is working much better from the flybridge and the traffic was pretty minimal...we will likely do much of the piloting down the rivers from the top deck. It certainly was a very exciting moment to turn from the Illinois onto the Mississippi--No sooner did we do so and we spotted a church steeple up on top of the bluffs and right on que the bells started ringing...Chip just looked at me and said, "We are blessed"...

Pulling into Alton we spotted the infamous Piasa image which dauntingly graces the side of the bluff along the river. In 1673 when Joliet and Marquette made their way down the river to this region they first documented the engraved 'monster' and described it as being 'as large as a calf with horns, a horrible look with red eyes, a beard, a tail like a tiger that wraps around its body and ends like a fish tail...green, red and black are the three colors composing of the pictures'. If you are interested in learning more about the 'monster' that the Illini Indians called The Piasa, pronounced Pie-a-saw, which means 'Bird That Devours Man', click HERE to read the legend.

Alton is known for many historical figures and events. Of them, Elijah Parrish Lovejoy, a preacher who relocated to St Louis from Maine, only to move to Alton because Illinois was a 'free state'...and in 1836 he is best known for taking a brave stand against slavery...Also, since we had only just been to Ottawa last week, the site of the first Douglas-Lincoln debates, it is only fitting we are now in Alton, the site of the last of their debates in 1858...it is said to be here that the term, "A house divided cannot stand" was first coined...Regionally there are many stories connected to evidence about the Underground Railroad, not far from here, a settlement in Godfrey known as Rocky Road is probably the oldest and largest of the underground railroad and was known as the 'Alton Route'...Recently, most notably, Miles Davis was born in Alton in 1926...and a flood in 1993, said to be the flood of the century, tested the tenacity of the folks in Alton...sandbaggers worked day & night reinforcing the levees...the river crested at 42.7 feet. --For those of you familiar with the Guinness Book of World Records, born in Alton in 1918 was an average size baby whom his family named Robert Wadlow...by 6 months old he weighed 30 pounds! Ultimately he grew to be 8' 11.1" and still holds the title today as the world's tallest man!

As important as any of these facts probably is that of Captains William Clark and Meriwether Lewis as they began their journey west in 1804 just a few miles south of Alton, at the mouth of the River Dubois in their quest to find the Pacific Ocean...This is where that great journey was launched...

Today we visited the National Great Rivers Museum where we got a bird's eye view of the Melvin Lock and Dam...We will be passing through here tomorrow at first light...Alton was a good stop...if we ever pass this way again we will spend more time here.

Meeting of the Great Rivers

After spending 3 wonderful nights alone anchoring on the Illinois River, we pulled into Grafton Harbor Marina on Wednesday evening. Historic Grafton, IL is a sweet little town offering both scenic nature & wildlife as well as a picturesque main street with antique shoppes, specialty stores featuring the work of local artisans and a variety of restaurants. We ate dinner last night at The Mississippi Half Step, which we would highly recommend. I had a glass of a local Illinois wine from a nearby winery and it was delicious!

This is where the Illinois River meets the Mighty Mississippi...all along the confluence of the two rivers the water birds are plentiful...We've spotted thousands of the migrating white pelicans...and less than 20 miles away, the Missouri River converges just south of Alton, which is our next stop. It is amazing to be in the place where these three great rivers come together. From where we are docked we can see the Mississippi River and the limestone bluffs in the distance...the sunrises and sunsets here have been breathtaking. Grafton is best known for the birds that come through this area in flocks as they follow the great rivers south. It is the winter home of the majestic American Bald Eagle. The road that runs along the river, known as The Great River Road in Illinois has been rated one of the "10 Greatest Drives in the Nation"...

I never thought I'd ever be cruising down the Mississippi River in my own boat someday...well, today's the day...Come on Captian, let's get going...our next adventure awaits us!

"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness." ~ Mark Twain

90.38'64" W

This is as west as we go...Tonight we are anchored under a RR bridge, just south of the little town of Naples, Illinois (no kidding)...at the western most point of the entire Great Loop! Now we have been to Naples, Idaho; Naples, North Carolina; and of Course, Naples, Florida! --Someday: Naples Italy! We pushed it today to make sure this was where we would end up...75 nautical miles at 7.5 knots plus one lock took nearly 10 hours! We are tired but happy. ~and, Life is good, as usual, on Ithaka!

(photo attached is a picture of the white pelicans in formation-click on it to make it bigger!)

The Morning Mist

Mystical Morning

Photo 1. Chip going out in the dinghy to pull up the stern anchor.

Photo 2. A Great Blue Heron flying by.

Photo 3. Before the mist disappeared. (remember, you can click on these pictures to make them bigger)

Got up early and made Chip french toast out of the homemade apple bread we bought at the farmer's market on Saturday...we took care of about two hours or so of "real estate " related work; then decided to head out into the peaceful morning fog...we knew it would burn off quickly, and there was definitely something mystical about traveling alone through the mist.

We saw several flocks of white pelicans...they are amazing! (click on link to learn more, too) I did a little bit of research and found out that they are a bird watchers delight...they show up every year, at this time, right in this very place as they migrate south through the upper Mississippi River Valley on their way from the fresh water lakes up north to the Gulf of Mexico! We watched a magnificent hawk circle overhead, and saw more great blue herons than we could count. The binoculars are coming in handy...

The barge traffic has been minimal...and we passed an old-fashioned paddle boat called The Spirit of Peoria. We didn't have to wait longer than 10 minutes at the lock today and it was the very first time we just floated through...no lines, which was really cool! --haven't encountered many floating logs...and still haven't seen one of those $500 carp! Sheesh! We watched the duck hunters, in anticipation of the upcoming season, trim their blinds and throw the "dumbie" birds out to their Labs--a method of training the retrievers, amazing... We cruised by several little towns, but opted to anchor again tonight...the weather has been beautiful...the water is calm...the sunset is breathtaking...this is the the kingdom...we are so blessed.